Detailing Types of pads and polish

Discussion in 'Detailing & Cleaning' started by Heckler, Monday 10th Aug, 2015.

  1. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    My car needs a good detailing, i'm slowly getting the resin/tar/sap of it... as my health permits. About halfway through at the moment.

    One that's done... I need to treat it as there is some minor lacquer damage from the stuff that was on it.

    I was doing it all by hand with some autoglym tar/sap remover, but that's a slog given that the car is covered in it. Then it started using a polishing pad soaked in the fluid on a low speed cordless drill... and that's working wonders. It's even helping reduce the visual impact of the small lacquer imperfections (they're a cm or less, but there's a lot of them on the bonnet and roof, fewer on the sides).

    Once cleaned, I plan on claying it and then some autoglym super resin polish.

    But I need advice on the next steps.. because of the lacquer, I need to treat it and protect the paintwork... want to stop the lacquer from peeling or water getting underneath it. A respray is out of the question as that would cost more than I paid for the car... although I wouldn't rule out just doing the bonnet and centre section of the roof as those are the worst affected.

    I was planning on getting some more polishing pads as I only had a small 3" orange dimpled one.

    But I see loads of 6-7" ones in various colours... usually in a kit with red, black, blue, orange, yellow... No idea if this is for a specific reason or not.

    I'm also unsure what kind of wax to get.

    Bear in mind that I have a very limited budget at the moment... Other things need doing that are more important than making it shiny I'm afraid. I can get 1lt super resin polish for £10, a kit of 5 pads for £12... which just leaves the wax... budget is a total of £40... so that's a max of £18 for some wax.

    Suggestions welcome.

    Cheers
     
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  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Your budget is quite tight. Also Super Resin Polish is a filling polish and doesn't do any cutting.

    @Nighthawk or @wanner69 what's your advice on this.
     
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  3. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    You should clay the car before you buff it otherwise you are grinding the bedded in muck deeper into the lacquer. Wash the car, use some IronX to remove iron deposits, then clay it, then buff it with a light cutting compound, followed by a sealant and wax. The first time I did my Accord, it took me the entire day and that was using a proper DA polisher.

    As speedy says, super resin is a filler, you need to cut back the lacquer first to remove the scratches properly and then wax over it to protect it.

    I use this, at times, for an intial cut. The paint and lacquer on Hondas, in fact all Jap cars that I know of, is pretty soft and thin so be careful

    Dual Action Cleaner Polish 946ML

    @wanner69 is substantially more experienced than I am so I am sure he will be able to advise much better than me.
     
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  4. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    OK, didn't know that.


    Yeah, once it's cleaned.... I plan on claying the car... To clean it I am simply washing it and then using a 3" dimpled foam pad soaked in the autoglym tar remover to get rid of the drips and spots of resin/sap/tar (not entirely sure exactly what it)... As I said, been trying to do it by hand but getting rid of all of it has proved very challenging. Then I tested the pad on my cordless and it's removing it all without scratching or damaging the paint or clearcoat... not even leaving swirl marks.

    I've looked at plenty of clays... but not sure which one to get, nor how much it will take... or even how to use it. I've seen it in various colours too and no idea if different colours mean different types and effectiveness... Much like the pads I was looking at.




    So many clay bars to choose from... I know the budget is tight, but I'd rather get it cleaned of the crap that's on it... and treat it to protect it... I can put money aside to get the good stuff in a couple of months.... Parents 50th wedding Anniversary soon... party to plan and pay for you see.





    Got plenty of microfibre cloths handy... had a whole stack of them come with my steam cleaner. :Smile:

    Hmmm... has anyone steam cleaned their car? Was thinking of the interior, not the exterior.
     
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  5. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    The roles of different pads varies by brand, I use HexLogic pads personally by Chemical Guys:

    Consider Hondas to have soft paint and use the guide above, I will say that against the recommendations above I use the heaviest cutting yellow pads when dealing with deep scratches, ideally you want to measure the paint depth first and as you go. It's worked a treat on several areas on my '07.

    My routine is something like:
    • Pre-Wash Snow-Foam
    • Hand Wash using the 2 Bucket Method
    • Clay with Ferrous Remover as Lube
    • First Complete Polish with Heavy Cutting Pad and Cutting Compound
    • Same again but just partial touch-ups on badly affected areas.
    • Filling Polish with Polishing Pad
    • Wax with Finish Pad
    I tend to use a hybrid wax/sealant which helps protect all my efforts, others may use a dedicated sealant in their workflow. I go thorough that every 6 months, only recently with pads and a DA, previously by hand. You don't need to cut back your paint regularly, only if required. Then just snow-foam and quick detailer gets me through week on week, topping up wax every couple of months - she's always easy to keep shiny that way.

    Brands I Use: Dodo Juice, Sonax, AutoGlym

    Wax

    For your budget and car colour I'd recommend Dodo Juice Blue Velvet in a 30ml sample pot, it's enough to do the whole car twice - £6.50:



    Or the hybrid "Pro" version which has some Dodo Juice Red Mist mixed in for sealant properties too (a bit harder to work) - £9:




    Polishes


    AutoGlym SRP is a good filling polish choice, for a cutting polish on a budget I'd recommend generic AutoGlym Paint Renovator - £6:




    I think that should keep your budget satisfied :Smile:
     
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  6. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    OK, here's a few pics to illustrate the issue.

    All of those little dots and marks is some kind of sap/tar/resin... the whole car was covered in them. The very last pic shows what it can look like after just cleaning the passenger side top rail.. no polish, no buffing and no wax. Just the autoglym tar remover, a cloth and lots of elbow grease... and then rinsed of with some soapy water and dried.

    It's the marks left underneath those dots that is the issue... I will try and get some close ups of some of them tomorrow, and also a few pics of where I've cleaned it off. It's a 10yr old car, so there are plenty of little stone chips on the front a couple of tiny scuffs to the bumper corners and so forth.

    I'll also need to pick up some kind of restorer for the black trim/channels on the roof and doors as that's faded quite badly. I saw the video on using a hairdryer or heat gun... but think that's just on plastic trim not metal.


    IMGP0307.JPG

    The second pic shows a corner of the roof that's been cleaned... again just tar remover, elbow grease and then rinsed of with soapy water and dried... What you can't see is the marks left behind that the bodyshop thinks is where it's lifted the clearcoat.

    IMGP0308.JPG

    Untreated top rail
    IMGP0310.JPG

    Treated top rail.
    IMGP0309.JPG
     
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  7. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    Oh man, that's pretty bad - so bad I want to go and clean it :Laughing:

    I think you'll do just fine on the recommendations above, but you might want to add in some trim product as well after seeing those pics:



    Rubbers you can bring back to black with a heat gun or hair dryer, thanks to a helpful tip from @ArcticFire.
     
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  8. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆


    @DeviateDefiant you are more than welcome to help clean it. :Smile:

    You think I'm joking... but I'm not. :lol:
     
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  9. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    I'm still recovering from two longs days at the weekend cleaning up my '07 :Laughing:

    I would actually happily help you mate, thing is I'm going to be really tied up next couple of weeks, as work's busy and there's plenty of prep needed for Japfest this weekend. I'd consider it one for a later date though for sure :Smile:
     
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  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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  11. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I've just remembered that I have one of these in the shed... not used it in years because I haven't got any of the pads for it...



    Then I found these lambswool covers... if I remember correctly, the fitted over the foam pad and were tied up to secure them in place.



    The other thing that I have is a random orbital sander that takes velcro discs... and is about 5-6" across... it's got a variable speed on it, and could take the 6" foam/dimpled pads... Has anyone tried using those kinds of things, as I can't spring for a proper polishing machine
     
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  12. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    For now I have ordered a new 5" velcro pad for my drills, and a kit with 6 foam pads. Four medium cutting pads, 2 fine polishing pads and one lambs wool finishing pad.

    I've also ordered 2 clay bars, 1lt of Autoglym super resin polish and 325ml of Autoglym paint renovator... That lot only came to £29 and some change... So some sealant/wax is all I need to get next, might wait until the end of the month and see what's left in the budget.
     
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  13. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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  14. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆


    Yeah, I was looking at them yesterday...

    I'm not expecting much to come of this... certainly not the deep clean shines that some people are getting... It's being done on a very limited budget. To be honest, I'll be happy if I can get all the crap of it and make it nice and clean... Clay it, wash it and polish it. If it comes up looking better than I find acceptable... it's a bonus. I just want all the crap of and for it to look in good condition. Which could be hard if the clearcoat has been lifted and/or eaten through,
     
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  15. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    From your pictures, it doesnt look like thats lifting or broken through lacquer.

    Make sure you wash the car before you clay it, if those spots are on the surface, the clay should help clear them up a bit.
     
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  16. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I was doing it by hand, autoglym tar remover a cloth and some soapy water to rinse of... But hard going doesn't come close to it.... 4hrs and I'd done one side and the tailgate,.. So I tried the polishing pad that came with the headlight restoration kit soaked in the tar remover and gently used only on those marks. Did half the bonnet in 30 mins on Sunday... not had a chance to look at it since because we had rain yesterday and it made the car all dirty and dusty again. So will wash it and check tomorrow, make sure it's not left any marks (it didn't look like it had). But you can't see the little blemishes that I can up close

    Once the car is cleared of the tar/sap/resin... then it'll get a deep wash, clayed and polished.... and I cross my fingers it looks good.
     
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  17. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    OK, couple of packages arrived today... the clay bars and the polish

    Having never used a clay bar before, and with them coming with no instructions... Is there a guide I should follow? They also really small, didn't realise they were that small... can they be reused, how do I clean them and so forth... Pic for reference, next to a scratch card to illustrate how small they are.
    2015-08-20 14.02.51.

    The polish is just 1lt of Autoglym SRP... I still need to get a cutting polish, but the pads I ordered haven't arrived yet and may take another week or so.

    2015-08-20 14.03.26.

    For now I have been using the autoglym tar remover on a small 3" polishing pad fitted to my cordless drill... I keep it damp with water and then add a little of the tar remover. It's been working quite well so far, certainly quicker than doing it by hand... and it's not leaving any marks or damaging the paintwork at all... There is no sign of any paint being taken off in the spots where it looks like the clearcoat has been damaged/lifted... and it's even smoothing out those rough edges around what could be clearcoat damage.

    I've tried getting pics of the damage... but even in macro mode my camera just won't focus on them.

    All I've got left to do now is the roof and the front wings... the rest of the sap/tar/resin has been removed... I have 2 cordless drills but keep running them down as they're getting old now... so I can do maybe 50-60 mins at a time before they both run flat... they then take hours to recharge.

    I've also noticed that the bonnet has an awful lot of stone chips that have gone down to the metal and you can see where the metal is starting to oxidise... No bubbling has started yet though... but the bonnet will need to be resprayed in the new year to prevent that from happening... Might get the front bumper done at the same time as there are some scuffs on the corner and it's had a light knock as you can see it's slightly out of alignment. May need to remove it and check the bumper bar/mounts underneath.
     
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  18. FirstHonda Premium Member Club Supporter

    With the clay bars, I'd try to see what the manufacturer recommends online.

    Some need only water to lubricate them - Bilt-Hamber for example - whereas some specify use of a 'quick detailer' type product (e.g. Meguiars).

    Either way, the trick with claying is to make sure:

    - That the area you are claying is small, and VERY well lubricated. The clay should glide and never get a chance to 'stick' while you are working it. When I'm using Bilt-Hamber I use my hose on the 'mist' setting to make sure the bodywork always stays lubricated
    - I'd say that an Accord bonnet should be split into 6 areas as an example - 3 'squares' on each side if you see what I mean - so that you aren't trying to do too much at once
    - Make sure that you 'work' the clay - kneading it to reveal a clean surface regularly
    - Don't drop it! And if you do drop it, throw it away and don't be tempted to use it again. I normally break off small pieces rather than using the whole bar
    - I tend to keep it in a small bowl in water while I'm working - gives you somewhere safe to keep it, and helps keep it soft.

    Wash the car again after claying and before doing anything else to the surface as well.

    ^^ I'd second this recommendation from @DeviateDefiant

    I got some of this for my (short lived) blue CR-V, and Zoran used it on his Accord with great results.
     
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  19. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

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    I've used Dodo Juice wax for a couple of years now, cannot praise it enough on both finish and durability.
     
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  20. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I did a little test on a couple of the marks left behind after removing all of the tar/sap/resin (still don't know exactly what it is)... I had some of the 3M polish left over from the headlight restoration kit. I'd cleaned the car, used the autoglym tar remover, cleaned it again and then used the 3M polish on the 3" orange dimpled pad.

    It seems to have removed the remained of the marks left behind... and there are no signs of paint on the pad. I'll clay the rest of the car and see if that helps... But I may need to get a cutting polish just for those marks.... then clean it once more and use the SRP followed by some wax. I was thinking of getting some of this



    mainly because it's cheap and within budget.... I did a search for dodo juice and it's not cheap stuff... for one 30ml pot of that I can get this stuff and some cutting polish.
     
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