Daily Driver Wozza's ICE 2006 Accord iCTD-i

7th Generation (2003-2008) vehicle added by DJ Wozza, Thursday 28th May, 2015

  1. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    I used to own a secondhand 1999 Accord 1.8 manual Executive Sport in Pearl Green, I kept it pretty standard with Bose 6 CD system & just changed the wheels to something a bit more stylish. Then after 6 years of ownershi & around and adding an extra 100k miles I swapped to a Lexus IS200. I had no plans to modify that, but got bitten by the modding bug.

    The Lexus got Supercharged, stiffened anti roll bars, braided brake line, custom GAZ Coilover Suspension, GHKS SuperDragger Exhaust,18" staggered rims, big ICE including front & rear cameras for track days, DVD, Freeview TV, custom LCD dash mounted screen, auto mirror closure module etc etc etc. Anyway got a fair bit of money back selling the mods & putting the car back to near standard for sale time. I needed something far more economical so a 2006 Accord 2.2 I-CTDI Executive came to replace it (approved used from John Banks Honda Ipswich).

    The plan was no more go faster mods, just keep it standard but go really big on the ICE install, yeet still retaining a fairly stock look to avoid attracting the wrong sort of attention,. I fell seriously ill after contracting meningitis just after I started the install, so it took many months to complete rather than maybe just 1, it is now 99% completed, just a few cosmetic touches to finish off as & when time & finances allow. I'm still not back to 100% fighting fit physically myself yet, but I'm still alive & I'm slowly getting there.
    AccordFront.


    Anyway as follows over the next several posts is my Accord
    Mine.
    BootInstall.
    Bootinstallatnight.

    ICE thread previously blogged elsewhere in real time so some things may be in past tense or present tense etc so please allow that as there is so much info to re-write would take forever.

    So going for big ICE isn't easy in the Accord, I looked at the Sat-Nav and non Nav models, and although you can add into the Sat Nav various bits including a reverse camera, the way forward was to buy a non Sat-Nav model. I found a low mileage car at John banks Honda in Ipswich, so took the drive up to check it out. Haggled a good deal which included a new MOT, years Car Tax, a service, a years Honda Warranty, and as it turned out the aircon rad had a slight leak so it was replaced & the system serviced a week or so later.


    So here she was as per the Auto Trader advert, and a couple from the day of collection....

    Dealer pic 2.
    Dealer pic 3.

    Dealer pic 4.

    Dealer pic 5.

    Dealer pic 6.

    Dealer pic 7.

    Dealer pic 8.
    - - - Updated - - -
    The road I live on is narrow & I have no off street parking, luckily I have a mate who is even more heavily into his ICE, only lives 10 mins away, who has a nice sized garden with offstreet parking for a few cars & a high fence to keep out prying eyes. The only problem is his availability as he works shifts for the AA & is a busy man. My install is limited to progress as & when he is available on rest days etc.

    The plan is to sound deaden the car as effectively as possible (within reason). Obviously good quality sound deadening is expensive, and some people go much much further than I am planning to, or can afford too. Also this stuff weighs a heck of a lot, as do the other parts of the build, 25mm & 18mm MDF constructed Subwoofer Box, heavy amplifiers & a subwoofer that weighs approx 24kg on it's own!!

    I am also going to be running two batteries (096) 12v AGM type that I have picked up for an amazing price. "The AGM battery is manufactured using AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology and is specifically designed for today's luxury vehicles with the latest stop start system. It has 5 times the capacity of a conventional acid battery and provides increase cycle durability and service life for stop start and high specification/current drain vehicles. They are maintenance free and 100% leak proof, making them totally safe to mount in the boot.

    These will be fed by 0AWG wiring from the front battery to the one in the boot, from there 0awg cable to 0awg fusebox, then again 0awg to the amplifiers them selves, with a 0awg-4awg solid metal cable reducer so the voltage loss will be absolutely minimal. Also the engine bay will hace "The Big Three" in 0awg cable, so I will get every single bit off juice possible when needed from the car Alternator & two battery set up. There will be a return Earth Cable in 0awg to the engine bay as well, some say this is overkill, but it should ensure as minimal interference or grounding issues as possible.

    On my Lexus there was ample trunking space down the sills inside the car to run 0awg cable, but upon inspection there simply isn't enough room to run 2 of these big cables in this space. I have spoken to a couple of owners from ther Talk Audio forum (both with Accord Tourers) and they ran the cable to the boot out the passenger wing and thru some 25mm dia plastic trunking conduit to the rear of the car then up into the boot. I will be doing this as well.

    After all that talking I am sure you need a break so here are some pretty pictures. Firstly a system diagram of what the plan is

    SystemChartUpdatedHondaJune1-1.

    UnipartSamsonAGM096GBA66096.

    KnuKonceptzTriple0GaugePositiveBatteryTerminal.

    EpicenterWhitejpeg.

    JLAudio12W7-37-1.

    JLAudio1000-12.


    JLAudio300-42.

    JLAuidoC2-65065-inch165mm2-WayComponentSpeakerSystem.

    PioneerTS-G1723iSpeakers.
    - - - Updated - - -
    So the install started, I've been using a combination of 4mm Silent Coat, 2mm Silent Coat,and some 9mm thick CCF sheets to deaden panels and cut down on unwanted noise.... a lot of smaller gap sin the rear of the roof were layered up, and once everything was level, then a full coat or two was applied as the sunroof is quite well reinforced with cross members etc.

    A quick note, the rear deck cover is in two parts, a hard plastic front section and a carpet covered cardboard rear section, there are silver screws around each 6x9 hole, and these hold the two parts together. It took ages to get the rear shelf off as the brake light hits the rears screen and it hasn't got enough clearance to pull off to get out of the way etc. Separating the shelf made it much easier going back in, and pretty surer it would have taken us a fraction of the time to remove it. Once the screws are out, pull up the front edge of the carpeted section and get that out the way would probably be the easiest for removal.

    Don't forget in front of the sunroof too!!!The cage that houses the Courtesy lights and sunroof controls & alarm sensors needs double sided sticky foam tape between it and the roof, otherwise with the amount of bass going thru the car would make it rattle really badly, and I didn't fancy taking the roof lining out again either to fix it later!!

    I hope these pics will help anyone attempting this kinda job, but obviously my car is being soundproofed for an ICE install, not just general soundproofing. I have much more to do including the boot, bootlid and the doors yet, will take a fair while longer than guesstimated, but the job is being done pretty thoroughly, so slow & steadfast will get the best results.....
    Also the costs, £300 so far on Silent Coat 4mm & 2mm Bulk packs and a 9mm thick CCF decoupling foam pack. I need another 2mm bulk pack as I still have a boot & 4 doors to go and only have half the 2mm pack left.

    I stuffed in some CCF and when you bang the parcel shelf top or bottom it's just a dull thud. When I come to do the doors, this CCF (closed cell foam) will go behind the speaker as it will break up any standing sound waves. The Silent Coat helps to deaden the panels in two ways, firstly by adding mass (1 square metre is over 5kg), but also it rubber/bitumen composite is formulated to reduce panel resonance by road noise & very loud speakers. Instead of hearing a car drive down the road with a loud stereo & the car sounding like it's farting, if applied correctly & in enough layers, it should cut all that nonsense out, even in a very loud system like mine. The benefits are two fold, no farting noises from outside of the car, and an even greater benefit is the sound from the speakers is kept inside the car thus making sure you get all the sound you have paid for.

    Anyway at this point things ground to a halt in my life/build as I was in hospital with meningitis so things had to wait until I am fully recovered before I can get back to it. I was as near death as anyone ever needs to get, so just grateful for all the support of my family & friends inc those online who sent messages/pm's etc.

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    - - - Updated - - -
    Finally back on track after my hospital episode. I think there are 3 full days left to go to completetion so should we should hopefully be 50% completed after today. Will be deadening the boot & bootlid, maybe fitting the reverse camera, and if enough time, installing the "Big Three" power & ground cabling in the engine bay etc....
    Still to do:
    1) run 0awg power cables from engine bay to boot via conduit under the car.
    2) install 2 new AGM type batteries (one in the boot)
    3) modify the aftermarket Double DIN facia so it actually fits
    4) sound deaden the doors
    5) install MDF speaker spacers in each door
    6) install coaxial rear door speakers behind factory grills
    7) install front components in doors & tweeters into stock locations in the dash
    8) fit subwoofer to custom MDF box
    9) fit Head Unit & modified facia to the dash
    10) sound check & adjustment
    Damn I can't wait for this to be finished!!!!

    There was some Dremel work on number plate cover plate so the reverse camera fits perfectly. Also some CCF to stop the cover panel from rattling. The camera clipped into position perfectly ( as it was designed specifically for this car), however the cover plate wasn't taken into consideration and when refitted bulged badly, & I really wasn't happy about that. The Boot Badge insides were layered up with double sided tape to stop rattles. The we started to fill all small voids in the bootlid filled with small strips of Silent Coat as best as possible, 2 layers minimum, 3 if possible, continuing to fill voids including up and behind the number plate/rear boot light clusters. This was ridiculously tedious & time consuming, but my pal who was helping me is particularly anal about doing a really thorough job. TBH he was right as doing at least two small layers in the voids you can actually reach then covering layers over the top of that.... this has made the boot have a uniform thud when you tap the panel.

    My boolid now need a serious dose of Viagra. It pops up only 1 inch now, and when lifting it you feel a ridiculous amount of weight. It will act like a guillotine when closing so might have to find a way to strengthen the torsion bars, or possibly a hydraulic ram money allowing of course.

    This was the camera I used, i bought it from Amazon US as eBay UK wanted silly money so bought it from the US for just £25 inc postage.

    The Double DIN fascia is from Metra USA model & doesn't fit anywhere near as well as I would like, I begin modding that tomorrow. Bit gutted thou as I had had it painted ready to go in before a test fit. As for the camera, I was a little worried the lights might not match up at night, but actually to the naked eye from behind they match up fine with the LED bulb I replaced in the left number plate light.

    My install is going nowhere fast, another trip to A&E Friday put paid to any chance of working last weekend, which means I have worked 1 day in 3 weeks and money is becoming ridiculously tight. Oh the joys of Self Employment....
    Alas I'm retty much laid up indoors with my leg/foot elevated & on Anitbiotics after a secondary infection left over from the meningitis pretty much eploded my big toe & made my foot 7 calf blow up like a balloon. I would post pics but they are pretty likely to make people barf. Hoping the drugs will do the job and I will be back to work on Thursday & Friday. Am pretty fed up but hey I might have a go at the ill fitting Metra facia tomorrow as I'm stuck indoors.

    1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

    missed this one earlier

    12 a.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Wednesday 20th May, 2015
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  2. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    I managed to get a little bit of work done on the install yesterday. Happy just to get even a little bit done after all the time off with health issues. The Double DIN facia has been nothing but troublesome, but those who might know me back from LOC days understand facia modding is something I can do fairly well.

    The Metra Facia supplied from the USA has small gaps at each side, and I just wasn't going to be happy with that. I hanted to test fit the Head Unit with the facia, then fit the lot into the dashboard to see excatly where we were before I decided exactly on a course of action...

    Bearing in mind I have now decided to go with plain black or the facia front to match the Head Unit trim, as to avoid any unwanted attention. There were problems however, as the Metra facia has two curves. One from top to bottom, the other horizontally from side to side which you can't really see until you take the whole thing out....

    From the front you only know how bad it is fitting if someone point's it out, but I'm not having a dogs dinner ill fitting trim on my dash, especially with the top head unit pioneer currently make (at the time of purchase last year when this work was being carried out. Patient work with a dremel (several test fits & more trimming) the ill fitting top now contours to match the fascia. Almost half it's thickness is gone in the middle, with less removed at the edges but now the trim fits near perfect. The side required less trimming, but the fascia isn't straight anywhere from top to bottom. Obviously because of how the Stereo fits & the shape of the dash, the bottom section will stick out, but when fitted this doesn't really notice at all.

    Finally I got itl ooking a bit more like the real deal. Shame about the gap on the right which was about 4x bigger than the one on the left when everything is bolted securely in. In fact the one on the left is only about 1mm and when painted black and bolted in won't notice, but Mr Rightside needed serious attention. At this point I can certainly see why there are very few fully ICE'd up Honda Accord (7th Generation) in the UK, and nearly all of those I have seen use a Single DIN head unit.

    The resin set and might well do the trick, notice the gap isn't uniform, it is even wider at the bottom, however this will be out of sight. The masking tape protected the dash and kinda acted as a mold for the resin & I will give it a bit more time to harden fully (just in case) before the Dremel comes out to tidy it up, and I will flat back the fascia front ready for priming & painting.

    Here is the reverse camera after fitting with the sidelights on
    cam.



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    The before picutre

    40 before.

    the after picture inc head unit trim piece
    41 after.
    - - - Updated - - -
    I originally planned for a 4mm bulk pack (24 sheets) & 2x 2mm bulk pack (41 sheets) of sound deadening (Silent Coat) costing £260, plus a 6 sheet pack of CCF (closed cell foam) isolator £20, but I have had to add at least another 2mm Bulk pack of Silent Coat (£90). That's ANOTHER 41 sheets of sound deadening.

    This is just due to the guy helping me being determined to do a really thorough job, where I might settle for 2 layers on pretty much every panel, he fills the tiny voids between skins/panels with individually cut pieces etc & this not only takes a lot longer but also takes up more of the Silent Coat. It has proven to be worth the extra cost/delay though. The roof is a prime example of the effectiveness of the Silent Coat & the car will really sound pretty extraordinary, but everything is now paid for except for some MDF for a new Subwoofer Box lid which will double as an amp rack, some woofer mounts for the doors, & what is known as "beauty board" to hide a lot of cables away in the boot. Famous last words "it's now all paid for" lol

    Getting well & finding times when we are both available to continue the install are the only real delays.

    Medically I hope I I get some good news & can crack on as standing up atm is a serious issue & that doesn't include the pain, the only time I have allowed myself to stand at all has been at work, the fascia modding the other day was pretty much done sitting down, but I need to be more mobile to get the rest done....

    So on with the ill fitting fascia.... I got it to the point it looks visually perfect, but you can still feel tiny imperfections hence the skim of filler. Fine P38 filler skimmed over the top should do the trick and some very gentle sanding should give me a finish as smooth as the original fascia ready for painting.... then simple Hellfrauds Plastic Primer & a few coats of Satin Black to finish. I keep guestimating just a couple more days but that then comes & goes & it becomes "just another couple of days to finish"...

    Time to make my very own ski hatch. But the Honda doesn't have a Ski Hatch i hear you say? Well you are correct, but it will have one of sorts, or should I say bass port in a similar way to the one in my old Lexus, but this black mesh grill will cover things more discretely when the armrest is down....

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    Lexus Ski Hatch removed so you get the idea
    48 lexus.

    49.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Managed to do a bit more work on the install. Firstly there was "Upgrading the Big Three"

    OE car wiring is built down to a price, and is also built to a certain spec. Car manufacturers will build to a price point/standard, but if you imagine how much wiring they put into every car, even small savings of a few pence add up to millions of £££'s over time. Copper cable is expensive, the thicker the cable, the higher the cost per foot/metre. Cars are not designed to have aftermarket goodies added to them

    Take the earth straps in your engine bay, they do an important job if engine/gearbox to chassis & battery to chassis. If you have ever had earthing issues of one form of another, you will already know how important a solid earth is to the cars electrical system. Bad earths can lead to all sorts of malfunctions, one of the most common is radio interference, or rear light clusters going crazy.
    Over a period of time copper oxidises in contact with air causing it to corrode, also after many years of vibration wires can also fatigue. They may not totally break, but fatigue or corrosion can cause the performance of the cable to become severely compromised as time passes.

    This can cause loss in your electrical systems efficiency, the battery might not get as much charge as it should, the starter might not get as much current as it should so turns slower causing it to take longer to start, the spark plugs could get a weaker high voltage (more so in older cars but you get the idea)...

    The really important earths are Engine/Battery Engine/Chassis & Battery/Chassis. There are lots more but for simplicity sake we won't name every single one. By either replacing these earths, or adding additional earth cables in these distinct areas, the theory is you will help to bring your cars electrical earths back up to or even better than (more of this later) it was when it left the factory. When you install a kit like this an essential is a small wire brush to take off any corrosion back to bare metal, or if a supplementary earth, to take paint off back to bare metal. Obviously you don't do this where rust would result etc.
    In ICE thinking, "The Big Three" takes this a stage further than just upgrading your ground cables.

    Additionally upgrade or replace entirely.....
    1) Battery Ground to Chassis
    2) Battery Ground to Engine/Gearbox
    3) Alternator to Battery Positive

    In ICE, especially at the performance/competition end, an efficient electrical system across the board is essential, but as a first stage the Big Three is normally a first step to gaining better performance/efficiency. BEFORE adding more batteries or capacitors or bigger rated alternators etc. so get the best out of what you have FIRST, before spending additional funds where it might not be otherwise necessary. So using as big a cable you can afford & that will fit (4awg is a decent starting point in ICE terms, rising to 0awg or bigger for big ICE), run supplementary cables in these vital areas to improve performance. The difference is quite marked. I did the big three on my Honda on Monday, 13.8 was across the battery at idle, it is now 14.11. Proof in my own eyes that the theory works in practice.

    Way back on my Lexus I did notice marginally better starting (& it wasn't a bad starter to begin with) and a smoother idle. I also got better Radio reception than previously. On the Honda the idle seems smoother too, but maybe that is my mind playing tricks on me. I hope what I have posted makes sense, I'm no expert/professional but have tried to explain the theory as best I can after years doing ICE as a hobby & all information is correct as I understand it.

    It was damn hard work continuing the install, as I am having major heath issues where standing is not only very very painful, but also detrimental to a speedy recovery, but also everything else ICE related been tough with this car, but think we are turning a corner now. I forsee only one problem regarding getting additional wiring into each door, but I will cross that bridge when i come to it. Anyway here are the pics.

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    holes for 0AWG Power & Earth cables drilled in the boot floor
    62 boot.

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    Fuse & Earth distribution bloacks
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    What is going where you might ask?
    Bottom Right - Fused Input from Front Battery 2x100A fuses.
    Bottom Left - Input from Boot Battery
    Top Right - 40A Fused Output for 300/1 Amplifier
    Middle Right - 100A Fused Output for 1000/1 Amplifier
    69.
    - - - Updated - - -
    The bottom row allows both batteries to join their power together before it is distributed between the 2 Amplifiers. This way the entire left side is live as well so power is in a big L shape, then the top and middle right carry the fused power out to the two Amplifiers. Also the bottom two fuses give protection from the second battery should the Powercable under the car get damaged and will not allow the cable to remain live under the car. The Cable is protected at the other end by the fuse in the engine bay.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Hopefully running 2 uprated AGM type batteries and big cables "should" mean the standard alternator will cope. AGM Batteries recover far faster than normal Lead Acid ones, plus they are safe to put inside the boot. The extra reserves these provide should counter any tendancy for the lights to go dim when a bass notes hit like I see on many other cars, and with the faster recovery almost acting like an ICE capacitor smoothing out the voltage. This isn't built to compete in SPL (Sound Pressure Level) or any other type of competition, but if I was going for SPL I would be running more subwoofers to get a higher dB rating. The bass will be plenty for my car tho.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Sound Deadening: A brief explanation as I understand it.

    There are different types of the stuff, the Silent Coat is the silver foil backed stuff previously seen. That is made up of a foil layer, and a rubberised tar/bitumen formula. It deadens the panels by mass loading. Just imagine a vibrating massage cushion, when someone big and heavy sits on it, it vibrates much less and allows much less sound to escape. It kinda works in a similar way. The light panel on say a door skin or bootlid etc will transmit a fair bit of road noise into the cabin. There are low frequency intrusions as well through the suspension/wheels & tyres, not just tyre noise bouncing back off the road surface or passing cars. If you deaden the panel a lot of these unwanted dB get decreased quite dramatically with sound transmission being drastically reduced. It also strengthens the panel with the extra mass as it is very heavey & has strong adhesive to hold on to the panel. It is applied with a hard worden roller to stop any air pockets between the silent coat and the panel, as air pockets would transmit noise. The more layers you apply, the less the panel will vibrate, the less noise.

    It's not just panel dampening that cuts down intrusion though. You build up the Silent Coat in layers so the edges hopefully overlap and provide a real barrier to the transmission of unwanted noise into the cabin. Then furthermore you can use other materials to cut noise even further, but this is for a different purpose. The matted grey material you sometimes see under a car carpet or on the backside of a door trim panel etc absorbs higher frequency noise, but obvioulsy manufacturers only put enough in to reduce the noise to an acceptable level within the car purchase budget (same as with wiring etc). If you use bigger sheets of the stuff on the correct areas that will also help cut out noise.

    This technique is called Sound decoupling. This self adhesive CCF (closed cell foam) is pretty good for dampening noise/vibration when two surfaces come into contact with each other.
    post-819-0-06680000-1402119118.

    post-819-0-76469300-1402119132.
    - - - Updated - - -
    This ICE thing iIt's a bit of a bug once bitten & a bit like the performance modified scene, oh well maybe just paint the calipers, then its braided brake lines, then it's bigger discs & Brembo Calipers, then it's lowering springs, then coilovers, then I need a Turbo or Supercharger, then I need more boooooost etc.

    Obviously you gotta learn as well and the raising expectations etc, but this install has been fully worked out before I even bought the car, but even then I have still had to change things as problems have arisen, so the install has had to evolve slightly.
    - - - Updated - - -
    My own expectations are pretty high now, & although the car is not built in anyway to be entered for comps, it should be able to scare a few in the Sound Quality sector. I deliberately avoided doing door builds with multiple speakers as they attract too much unwanted attention, so pretty stealthy as from outside the car the Head Unit is really the only clue or the Alpine Freeview Aerials in the screen etc. The other thing I personally find about cars that compete in SPL Competitions (Sound Pressure Level) is the Stereo imaging tends to get very very very confused, or they have ridiculous amounts of bass to reach a high dB count, but they have very little balance for the rest of the audible frequencies. Let me explain what I mean, & please excuse the possible patronising explanation.

    Audio Snobbery or Hi-FI vs Loud Music Noise....

    Hi-FI
    Take sitting in the middle of your sofa, ideally your floor standing or stand mounted speakers are about 4-6 feet in front of you, a similar equal distance apart, & are toe'd in slightly towards your perfect listening position. If your Hi-FI system is any good, this set up 'should' give you an amazing stereo image of your favourite music. If the source material is good & the studio production/sound engineer did a good job, you should be able to hear (with your eyes closed) the singer in the middle directly ahead, & be able to pick out in front of you exact instruments in different places in the 180° forward of your listening position. Just like being in the front row of an orchestral concert for example. Being able to pick out individual instruments & where they are is an audio image making up the "soundstage". The wider & more accurate the soundstage, the more you should be drawn into the music. Try it & see what I mean.

    The sound engineer has a massively important job in recreating the soundstage so it is as accurate as possible in the case of an orchestra, or in a much smaller case the artist & musicians etc. to give you a good stereo image, or to generate one to fool your ears into hearing one, as instruments can be recorded in different sessions (even on different continents) or be computer generated in much modern dance music.

    So we have a good source CD player for example, quality amplifier, speaker location, separation, & listening position, we have a sound engineer in the studio mixing all the sources together to give us a wide soundstage with good imaging. This is Hi-FI.

    To recreate (as best as possible) the same audio quality in a car is a nigh on impossible task. The physics of momentum, constant vibration, unwanted noise, plus the physical size restrictions in the car mean speakers 4-6 feet away equidistant is NEVER going to happen. Compromises have to be made, but the task from my point of view is to get audio as close as possible to true Hi-FI as I can, but to be able to go appreciably loud at the same time. That is my personal target for this install. Hi-FI that has some real balls behind it, yet retaining the quality throughout. I removed the 6x9's on my rear shelf for two reasons. Firstly, the rear doors have speakers in them & as people in the back of my car are never as important audio wise as those in the front, the door speakers will be enough. Also I never understood why people rave about booming 6x9's, as when you go to a concert, all the main speakers are in front of you! Hi-FI vs Noise again.... Secondly, once removed, they make great apertures to allow bass into the cabin.

    Ideally as the main speaker set at the front, the Woofer (mid bass to upper mid freq) & Tweeter (lower high to highest freq) should be close together like home speakers. This ensures the path length from either speaker is approx the same distance to your ears on each side. Differences in path length alter how long it takes for the output to reach your ears can affect the timing, get the timing out & the music will start to become confused & muddled. This can be corrected by time alignment adjustment for each individual speaker to ensure the music reaches your ears at exactly the right time. By using the stock locations, my install is a compromise, but when adjusted shouldn't be much of an issue as the driver quality is very high as is the amplification & head unit.

    Loud Noise
    Cars going for big dB tend to go for massive numbers of drivers. In the doors, in the dash, in the roof, on the rear shelf etc. We have all heard little Johnny Chav in his Saxo parked outside Tescos or hellfrauds with some ridiculously cheap but hugely loud 6x9's on his back shelf & a huge subwoofer & box taking up his entire boot. Take that kinda thinking & multiply it a few times & you get the SPL boys. Some have a bit more to them than that, but most are designed to ram as many speakers as possible into a vehicle to create as much sound as possible. A stack of mids & tweeters with subwoofers in huge enclosures with specifically designed ports that boost at a certain frequency to make the biggest reading on a dB meter is all very well, but it ain't Hi-FI!! With all the different mids & tweeters you have sound coming at you from all directions, with different path lengths, the imaging tends to be all over the place, & it's fine if you want to make a girls hair move for a YouTube clip, but not a lot of use for anything else IMO. It's just musical Noise.

    So my target is the best sound quality I can, with some real balls behind it.
     
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  3. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    Some pics of Silent Coat-ing the boot. It's 95% completed, but constant rain interruptions & then failing light put paid to efforts until tomorrow, when I will remember to take better pictures. To apply this stuff correctly takes way way longer than you would think. Way longer....

    This really is becoming a chore now, but I can't take short cuts now after all this effort, but started to run low so I had to order some more Silent coat. We are up to approx £350 plus another £90 just on sound deadening of different types, but thankfully it will be the last pack I need.

    Then I made a hidden Battery stand as where the second battery was going to go, so it will be safe & secure Unfortunately, the floor was not flat. Much measuring, router, test fit etc took a fair bit of time. This was bolted down under the boot trim, then I had to make the board to mount the distribution Fuse Blocks on.

    As it is a complex shape a template for one side was drawn, trimmed, trimmed some more etc. then again for the other half. Tape them together, trace out into MDF. Then ALL the sides needed to be beveled & contoured so it sank perfectly into the space, rather than 18mm square edges of the MDF poking out. Another age sanding & test fitting, then repeat until it fitted properly.

    Next stage planning the Fuse cabling & Battery cables. I have decided to mount the battery backwards so the cables & terminals will be hidden. I test fitted it the other way round & it just oiled messy with too many cables on display. Hopefully the reverse mounting solution will be a bit tidier.

    The Power Distribution Block & Ground Block were test fitted, final cable routes planned out, & the relevant cable holes drilled & chamfered & finally a quick squirt of paint. All of a sudden it was 7:30pm & time to call it a night. 3 rain interruptions have put tomorrow's hopeful finishing deadline out of reach.

    The trimming carpet should arrive first thing, then I can crack on with completing the boot build, including finishing the box, amp rack, & re-installing the Subwoofer. That will then leave just 1 full day to deaden the doors, & install the speakers, & finally the head unit. Unsure when that will be as my pal is back at work on Thursday, so the delay till the final day of the install will be a real killer. After tomorrow tho, we will really be getting close.....so long as the carpet turns up this morning first thing!!

    Anyway here is some pictures of yesterday's work starting with the stripped out boot floor. Awaiting silent coat & carpet....
    70.
    71.

    CCF (Closed cell foam) blocks to stop the spare passing vibrations on all over the place.
    85.
    73.

    CCF for the interior slam panel
    74. 75.

    Cable glands for a watertight seal
    73a. 76. 77.


    Battery Base board as the floor is uneven here (upside down in the pic)
    78.
    79.

    Carrdboard template for the fuse board
    80. 81. 82. 83. 84.

    more to follow
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    That must be one awesomely sounding ICE system.

    I'm going to have a full read of your posts when I get home this evening.

    LOL, it sure is.

    PS I've fixed a couple of picture attachments for you.
     
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  5. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
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    yeah I'm still getting to grips with the forum as I would normally post pics to my photobucket account & link from there.

    I will try to get as much of it up as I can today if not over the next few days, I keep correcting text from past to present etc and I'm sure I have a missed a few, but as it was blogged over a few months, there were parts where people asked questions & things went off on a tangent. I'm more than happy to answer any question people might have, but I am letting the pictures do most of the talking atm.
     
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  6. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    ... and they are doing plenty of talking :Smile:
     
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  7. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    Well the carpet didn't arrive, but the last pack of Silent Coat did arrive.... when I was out. It kinda sums up my day yesterday. Two steps forward & four back. It seems EVERY little job on this install has been a mare, either in getting things to fit, or having to make compromises I really don't want to.

    I'm a bit down as I was hoping to get the car to a point where it is 95% done by this weekend, with just some cosmetic finishing off, but alas we have come up short. Everytime I guesstimate how long we have left, it seems I have to add two full days to it. So here is where we are after 3 full long days work this week...

    The Box
    I originally built this two years ago. It was designed to be installed on my Supercharged Lexus IS200 firing directly through the ski hatch. The complex folded port was so you could see the Subwoofer through the Acrylic window as per my previous install in that car. I spent a lot of time building that box, & it is ported & tuned to be twinned with the JL Audio 12W7 Subwoofer.


    86.
    87.
    88.

    Box lid reminded me so much of Pinhead from Hellraiser lol
    89 pinhead.
    90.

    Extended the Seat release straps and looped them up over the boot torsion bar so they could be easily reached.

    91 extended seat release.
    92.
    93.
    94.
    95.
    96.
    97.

    Chamfering the edge of the "beauty board" so it fits very snugly
    98.
    99.
    100 ran out of MDF.
    101.

    I prob just need a few days to recharge after 3 full days on the install, with the current health issues I am pretty weak & tire really easily due to being laid up for some two & a half months. Just a bit cheesed off & want it finished, but I guess anyone who has undertaken a big project such as this, or engine rebuilds/swaps/major upgrades etc, hits a few brick walls along the way that can totally halt progress.

    I wouldn't even be halfway to here if it wasn't for my pal Rob, not only for having a suitable place to do the install (my tiny road is no good & I have no off street parking), but for doing a fair bit to help me. He was the one climbing into the boot applying with the roller whilst I cut out the various shapes in the silent coat sheets as required, passing tools here & there etc. I would be looking at next Spring if it was down to just me in my current condition. A real team effort.
    - - - Updated - - -
    For anyone wondering, the heat fins of the amplifiers are mostly under the (empty) 6x9 apertures on the back shelf, there will be enough bass moving the air around back there flowing through where those speakers used to be to provide adequate cooling. That's the plan anyway.
     
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  8. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Reminds of back in the days when I use to ICE installs for people.

    Oh yeah, for sure, big projects through you off at tangents when all you want to do get is across the finish line and enjoy the finished project.
     
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  9. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
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    I could have gone for a really showy boot install, but wanted a more kinda factory look than my Lexus so it's subtle but still very nice. The rest of the install is quite stealthy with upgraded speakers behind the factory grills, & a shouty showy boot build wouldn't really go with it. I think I will be happy how it turns out in the end, must be finished by 5th Sept as am at JAE & the car simply MUST be finished!!

    Making the beauty board etc, rounding, chanfering and recessing & the Fuse board then covering in carpet

    102.
    103.
    104. 105. 106. 107. 108. 109. 110. 111. 112. 113. 114. 115. 116. 117. 118. 119. 120. 121. 122.
    82275_124.
    82275_124.
    123. 125. 126. 127. 128.
    - - - Updated - - -
    whoops help attachments everywhere lol
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Wednesday 20th May, 2015
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  10. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    LOL ... one mo
     
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  11. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    Pressure time, I really want this finished in time for JAE Can we really in two days:

    Completely finish the boot
    Silent coat under the rear seat
    Silent Coar all 4 doors thoroughly
    Run speaker cable into each door
    Make 4 Custom MDF Speaker Spacers
    Install 1 set of coaxials in the rear doors
    Install 1 set of components in the front doors & dash
    Run control cables to the dash for the EPICENTRE & Subwoofer Amplifier
    Install the Head Unit into the dash
    Any tidying up plus...
    A Full system set up session

    It's looking doubtful at this stage, and after every new day that gets completed, I find myself allowing another 2 full days to complete the install....

    129. 130. 131. 132. 133. 134. 135. 136. 137. 138. 139. 140. 141. 142. 143. 144. 145. 146. 147. 148. 149. 150. 151. 152. 153.
    154.
    - - - Updated - - -
    We were out of time for JAE, working under a floodlamp for the final picture there. It would have been great if it was finished...
    Problems arose due the boot taking much longer than expected, which goes along with pretty much every detail on this complete install. So much so in fact I want to rename this thread as "Mission Impossible"!! Once the time was ticking along yesterday it was "ok well lets ingore the rear doors sound deadening & rear door speakers for now" as that was the only way were going to get the Head Unit in & Front Door sound deadening & Front speakers installed.
    155.

    Once the Front Door Panels were removed it just went from bad to worse. I mean much worse. For starters the Door Speakers won't fit, the rear spiders on these expensive speakers will simply not fit into the current aperture as the Honda OE Speakers had a Neo Magnet which is tiny in comparison, which allowed for the Honda speaker frame to have a much much smaller spider. .

    Honda Speaker rear view
    156.

    VS
    157.

    in this little hole means some edges will need a trim even when an MDF spacer is used.... (library pic)
    158.
    - - - Updated - - -
    We were out of time for JAE, working under a floodlamp for the final picture there. It would have been great if it was finished...
    Problems arose due the boot taking much longer than expected, which goes along with pretty much every detail on this complete install. So much so in fact I want to rename this thread as "Mission Impossible"!! Once the time was ticking along yesterday it was "ok well lets ingore the rear doors sound deadening & rear door speakers for now" as that was the only way were going to get the Head Unit in & Front Door sound deadening & Front speakers installed.
    155.

    Once the Front Door Panels were removed it just went from bad to worse. I mean much worse. For starters the Door Speakers won't fit, the rear spiders on these expensive speakers will simply not fit into the current aperture as the Honda OE Speakers had a Neo Magnet which is tiny in comparison, which allowed for the Honda speaker frame to have a much much smaller spider. .

    Honda Speaker rear view
    View attachment 59636

    VS
    157.

    in this little hole means some edges will need a trim even when an MDF spacer is used.... (library pic)
    158.


    I have a few things to do in the mean time, I need to construct a cover for the battery and order some perspex for the front of the amp rack. I just need a few days away from the car to gather my thoughts and recover some enthusiasm before it gets a full on attack. It might have knocked me down for JAE, but anyone that knows me understands that I am never beaten, battle will recommence in a week or so, with hopefully 1-2 more full days until EVERYTHING is 100 completed.
    "Mission Impossible"?
    Nah mate, Mission nigh on Impossible!!
    Contracting meningitis and the associated medical issues (that still plague me now) was never part of the plan. If I had bought an Audi A4 TDi it would probable have broken down by now, but at least the install would have been finished!!
    There are still a few minor finishing touches needed in the boot, but as of right now it is 100% wired in and functional, there is jusy no head unit fitted or door speakers to connect to......
    I'm just really deflated as getting meningitis & the still continuing medical issues has stopped me from getting to JAE with the car totally finished. I'm also (just in my head ATM) toying with the idea of ripping out the amp rack & redoing the cables so they run out of sight beneath the board then come up individually thru it. Hmmmm I'm not sure as it was tough enough getting them all in place the first time around....
    At this point there was a delay, my pal was under orders from his Mrs for as much overtime at work as possible (saving for a wedding next year) and tbh I had missed JAE and I was thoroughly deflated as it was going to be months before I could really get back onto finishing and the weather had already turned against us....
    - - - Updated - - -
    There was a break of about 4 months here with bad weather & where my pal was busy at work, TBH he has had me over a barrel as all my install tools, front components, sound deadening etc was all at his. So I called a halt too it. So he's now getting all my bits together, and at a mutually convenient time in about a week I pick up my remaining gear, shake hands & part ways, and can then crack on elsewhere with it so it finally gets finished......
    - - - Updated - - -
    Anyway after probably the worst year of my entire life health wise (which nearly took it & is still a massively complicated continuing saga), along with the knock on of the worst ever financially too, I'm glad something positive has finally happened to end it & I can crack on to a finish in the next 6-8 weeks.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Did a few minor bits at the weekend, door cards off taking speaker measurements etc, nothing of note picture wise tho. This morning I had a chat with another installer, this time a very highly respected professional install shop. Due to current health issues (improving but not improving as fast as I would like), & not having a nice warm double garage to use, and my sheer desperation @ getting the install finished after 4 months of delay, it really leaves me little option but to get a pro installer shop to finish off the last day or two of the install. Now after all the hard work, the planning, the DELAYS, I just need it finished!!

    So with some additional funds, I should be up & running within the next month or so, deffo by the end of February so it's all ready for the upcoming season of Car Meets.

    One final question, anyone want to buy a kidney??
    - - - Updated - - -
    The Accord install wasn't designed to a competition car to make the girl'ls hair go crazy like some videos, it still retained all the seating for starters, had a usable boot space (albeit a small one), and everything was pretty much hidden away so you wouldn't even know it was there.

    The main aim was crystal clarity whatever the volume, with a large helping of tuneful bass that wasn't just a deep thud thud, something articulate but forceful. It could make your hair tingle a bit but that was about it.

    Similar aims this time, but to take the quality up a notch or two, & I'm now running the same subwoofer as before, with a same model series amplifier rated at double the power. That for doesn't mean it will go twice as loud though, as to increase 2dB is a bit like taking a car that's hitting an aerodynamic brick wall at 198mphl, and then trying to get it to break 200mph. To do that a huge increase in power is needed etc.

    So to recap the Subwoofer amplifier is now a 1000/1 (previously a 500/1 1x 500Wrms), the 4 channel 300/4 (4x 75Wrms) will now be running in 2 channel bridged mode (front doors now 2x 150Wrms), & finally the rear doors will be powered by a third Amplifier (2x 75Wrms). The 6x9's normally found on the rear shelf have been removed to allow more bass into the cabin.
    - - - Updated - - -
    A few bits & pieces finished off today, no time for pictures unfortunately, it was too cold to hold the camera steady.

    Door Bins
    Lined the inside of the door bins with a layer of Closed Cell Foam
    (Prevents any bits & pieces jangling around)

    Power Cable & RCA's
    Run Power Cable from the Fuse Box to under the driver seat plus an RCA Phone lead for the amplifier that will drive the rear door component speakers. This is a JL Audio A-2150 providing 2x 75Wrms, this allows my 300/4 to run in bridged mode 2x 150Wrms to the front speaker set up. Watch for a somewhat different & slightly unique solution to the front sound stage than the Lexus, which had stock location Mid/Bass Woofers in the bottom of the doors, with tweeters mounted in stock pods behind the mirrors. You won't see any difference other than the Honda tweeter stock location is in the corners of the dash near the windows.... More of this when the car is finished.....

    Ski Hatch
    Yep. I took a Dremel to the area behind the rear arm rest to make a Ski Hatch/Bass Port. As I fully intend to keep the car for at least a few years yet, this was the only solution. With the rear 6x9's removed & this extra port, there will be very little obstruction for the bass flow into the cabin. Some cars systems are deliberately designed so the car can be heard streets away. Mostly they don't live up to the hype inside when you get a demo. As this car was designed to keep me happy, & as I sit inside the car, that is where I have focused the sound. If you can hear it outside then great, but that's just a bonus for you. I want the sound to be focused on those lucky enough to hear it from the inside.

    A big shout to my pal Lukvhir for his help & use of his sheltered driveway today. If I win the lottery I will deffo buy a big house with a double or even treble garage. Working outside today was fine, the sun was out. Then all if a sudden my hands just started freezing up, which then spread to my core very quickly, so we had to retire to his nice warm house stopping any further work for now.

    Mission impossible is very nearly achieved...... (Januarey 2015)
     
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  12. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Wow - I havent had a chance to even really look at this, I will do so when I get home from work later and have a chance to digest it. I am looking forward to it.
     
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  13. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
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    77
    So the good news is it's finally finished. Well kind of. It's all in fitted & working but there are a few cosmetic bits needing attention. These will all get done over the next couple of months as it gets warmer, and are already paid for etc, it's mostly just a question of tidying up & finishing off.

    1) A Battery Box for the boot install needs to be made from sheet aluminium & carpeted.
    2) Under Rear Seat still needs to have the Silent Coat applied.
    3) A custom fit Perspex Panel covering the Amplifiers needs to be made & fitted, with JL Audio Decals.
    4) Re do Amp Rack. I'm going to hide away the cables underneath. Quite a rigmarole but will tidy the look up.
    5) The temp Ski Hatch needs finishing off so it's visually perfect.
    7) Driver's cubbyhole has 2 bass controllers in and the infra red control for the TV tuner, so it needs a mounting plate cut & custom fitted to tidy it all up inside.

    So how does it sound? Initially it was impressed, then maybe a little disappointed. Then a few crossover tweeks, measuring path lengths to my ears in my driving position, time alignment dialing in and corssover adjustment then it was just like WOW!! We have CD, Mp3, iPhone, DVD, Freeview TV, DAB Radio, Handsfree Bluetooth & Reverse Camera. Oh & Sat Nav, I nearly forgot that. There are 11 Speakers, 3 Amplifiers, & one very happy driver!! A good week or two running in the speakers inside the cabin, then more gain levels & crossover tweeking, & finally then some EQ to my own personal preference (which is totally flat so far).

    final .

    I'm really glad I changed my install along the way.
     
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  14. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Absolutely awesome @DJ Wozza, like all big projects, the effort, pain, hardship were all worth it in the end.
     
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  15. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    My original plan was to use the C2-650 speakers as my front set up, I actually heard these some 2 years ago and bought them on the spot. They were sat on top of my wardrobe for over a year in their box awaiting the install to get underway. Retailing at just over £200 I was more than happy to have these sitting behind my factory grills.
    c2.


    Then I was offered a set of JL Audio C5 components (retail at £450 OR SO) for a silly price coming out from an SQ competition car that was being sold, so my C2's were then relegated to back door duty & the fairly cheap Pioneer coaxials were sold on without ever coming out of their boxes,So C5's at the front it is!
    C5.


    This plan was to change however, as I went to a JL Audio night at BCSS in Coulsdon, and heard the brand new JL Audio demo car with the new C3's in the front doors. These are a very special set of speakers as they can be used in two ways depending on what suits the install locations.
    c3 co.


    They can be driven as coaxials with the tweeter mounted directly in the centre so in a similar way to some Tannoy or KEF home Hi-FI speakers they generate a single point sound source.
    c3 undo.

    Alternatively they can be used as separate components with the tweeter in a separate location like at the top of the door behind the mirror or even in the dash like the existing Accord set up.
    c3 plug.

    crossovers.
    c3.


    I heard these as coaxials in the front doors of the Audi A3 and they sounded tremendous with crystal clear vocals, albeit a little directional with the sound obviously coming from low down in the door. They kicked pretty well for just a single set and I asked how they compared to the more expensive C5's (I had just bought for a tiny bit over £100). The responce was unanimous that the C3's could kick a little bit harder than the C5's. Hmmm dilema.... so what I came up with was this, & it turned out to be a stroke of genius or maybe a bit of luck.
    c5 crossover.

    C5 Tweeters.

    I bought a set of C3's for the front doors, but decided to use the C5 tweeters in the accord location in the far corners of the dash, so I had full range C3's behind the grills in the front doors, but the super smooth C5 tweeters up on the dash lifting the soundstage up just a touch. The C5 crossovers are ridiculously adjustable and although i know they are up there, due to them being attenuated ever so slightly you are really not aware of where they are. It sounds more like the y are behind the air vents as they just lift the sound stage up out from the doors. I hope that makes sense, but it's so much easier to explain when someone is having a demo as you can get them to close their eyes & just use their ears.

    Here is the C2-650's in the rear doors
    rear doors c2.

    Here is the C3-650's in the front doors (trust me they are in there)
    dront doors c3.

    you can see the tweeter still in lace here with the Silent Coat & the FAST Ring (more about that in a bit)
    IMG_8737.

    Not forgetting the C5-650 Tweeters up in the dash
    dash c5.

    Here is an original Door card, not the big paper mache thing that acts like a bung in a big hole in the door)
    door card original.

    This was removed and a secial thin layer of self adhesive CCF was applied to certain parts of the door to de-couple it and hoefullt stop it vibrating.
    door card.

    door card 2.

    Here is my little drivers cubbyhole mod as it looked untidy with these controllers just hanging in there
    cubbyhole 2.

    cubbyhole.

    cubbyhole 3.

    amd here are a couple of picture I forgot to add earlier, firstly the Alpine DVB-T Tuner under the passenger seat
    Alpine Freeview 1.
    Alpine Freeview 2.

    Also the JL Audios A-2150 Amplifier residing under the drivers seat that powers the rear Door C2-650 set up.
    JL Audio A2150 Amplifier 1.

    JL Audio A2150 Amplifier 3.




    Right so who wants a listen ???
    - - - Updated - - -
    I did mention the F.A.S.T| rings earlier, the gumph on them is here, but basically they seal off the gap between the MDF| mounts and the door card so you don't lose music energy with sound rattling around between the door & the door card. The video explains it a bit better I think.



    F.A.S.T. Rings 3-Piece Foam 6.5" Speaker Enhancer Kit - Mobile Solutions - USA
    - - - Updated - - -
    I think this is everything in my install but probably missed something out...

    Pioneer F-60DAB Head Unit/Sat Nav/DVD/USB
    Alpine TUE-T150DV DVB-T TV Tuner
    Alpine KRE-500E Remote Eye
    Alpine KAE-210DV Amplified DVB-T Tuner Aerial
    Alpine RUE-4143 Remote control
    AudioControl Epicentre with Remote
    JL Audio 1000/1 Amplifier (Subwoofer)
    JL Audio 300/4 Amplifier (Front stage)
    JL Audio A-2150 Amplifier (Rear doors)
    JL Audio 12W7-3 Subwoofer
    JL Audio C5-650 Tweeters (Dash)
    JL Audio C3-650 Component/Coaxials (Front doors)
    JL Audio C2-650 Components (Rear doors)
    JL Audio RBC-1 Remote Bass Controller
    Pyle PLCM HONDA Infrared Rear Camera
    Silent Coat 2mm & 4mm Multi Bulk packs
    CCF Decoupling foam 9mm & 3mm
    0awg OFC Power & Ground Cables
    4awg OFC Power & Ground Cables
    0agw & 4awg Gold Terminals
    KnuKoncept 0AWG Battery Terminals KBT-30 & BT-104
    KnuKoncept KNF-60 Fused Distribution Block
    KnuKoncept KNF-36 Fused Distribution Block
    KnuKoncept 8AWG x2 Subwoofer Cable
    KnuKonceptz Krystal 4 Channel RCA Kables
    Heat resistant Plastic Conduit trunking
    - - - Updated - - -
    A good part about the install & the car itself is that it is pretty stealthy & doesn't attract too much attention, it doesn't scream "come & nick me" which was exactly the effect i want, no spoiler, no tinted windows and no huge Pioneer or Alpine stickers on the back window!!

    Just had a quick tot up, current retail prices just for the equipment without labour are over £5k
    sad01_anim. crying_anim02. :Ohdear: sad01_anim. :Ohdear: crying_anim02. BangHead.

    Luckily some things I have owned for years such as the Subwoofer (8 years and still running perfectly) 300/4 amplifier (7 years) TV Tuner (approx 5 years) and these items were at or around half retail as they were second hand (subwoofer was as new in the unopened box), so its not like I went out with £5k cash and just came back with this lot etc. and if you add in labour I would suggest £2,500-£3,000 on top of that....


    What was it my old pal Pete used to say? If it's got tits or tyres it's gonna cost ya!.....
    - - - Updated - - -
    oh and if anyone is wondering what the AudioControl Epicentre actually does, take a quick peek here as it explains better than I can, but in short it puts bass into songs that didn't have any in the first place using harmonics.

    The Epicenter - AudioControl

    EpicenterWhitejpeg.
     
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  16. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
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    I'm still discovering new things this Pioneer head unit does. I was giving a demo of the install to a guy last night & going thru all the functions etc With Apple Car play I can actually vocally tell the phone who in my contact list to call & it does it.

    Even more impressive is when I told the Pioneer to send him a text message, I dictated the message & it sent, straight to his phone in his pocket in the passenger seat. I didn't know it could do that! It's pretty cool & a very impressive thing to do on a demo.

    If anyone else in SE London/Kent border wants a listen just shout me up!
     
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  17. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Im still reading through this - what a great journey so far. Where did you learn about all of this? I am ok with basic to medium car electronics and have installed numerous sound systems in a car but never to this extent. Soundproofed my car just because I wanted more quietness out of it on journeys.
     
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  18. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
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    Everything in here is pretty basic, just keep it simple as possible & I try to plan everything out ahead as much as possible. I'm fairly competent @ most electrical bits on the car, but that's were my skills stop, when it comes to circuits & proper electronics I get out of my depth pretty quickly so leave that wherever possible to those better qualified, either that or I ask for help, you never stop learning.

    As for the sound deadening, one thing it has shown up is the wind noise (at motorway speeds) thru the window seals, & also at pull away how you could probably improve the engine firewall sound proofing a touch on the Diesel, but that is being picky tbh.
     
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  19. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I got the wind noise as well, and whilst my soundproofing isnt quite to your depth, I used a simple panel beating trick to sort the wind noise from the seals. Either knock the door catch further into the B pillar of the car ensuring a better and tighter seal of the rubber seals against the body or gently push the upper section of the door further in, again, providing a better seal depending on where the leak is coming from. A nice easy test is putting some shoe polish around the seal of the door, closing it and seeing the point and amount of impact. This helps narrow down where the noise is coming from.

    Wind noise has been greatly reduced.

    I need to do the Civic, you can hear it whistling through under heavy wind.
     
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  20. DJ Wozza Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wozza Bromley
    126
    77
    There is a thread elsewhere on the net I saw a guy putting a small strip of extra beading into the seals & it was very effective & fairly cheap to do, plus it was fully reversible. I might give that a try, but tbh the stereo is normally up loud enough for it not to bother me that much.

    I have a few things to finish off in the boot, plus more deadening needed around the rear seat as I am still getting some vibration from there when I really turn things up, I might never totally solve it as the folding seat design isn't totally rigid like a steel firewall/bulkhead I had in the Lexus.
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    The alternative is to only demo with a car full of people as there are no rattles with passengers in the back :Grin:
     
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