2003-2008 Honda Accord Boot Gas Strut Conversion

CL7 - CL9, CM1 – 6, CN1 and CN2

  1. Accord_N22
    Difficulty Level:
    2003-2008 Honda Accord Boot Gas Strut Conversion

    Just having performed this on my Accord I thought it was a relatively neat modification
    It will involve removing the torsion spring bars which currently hold the boot lid up and replaces it with gas struts usually found on higher premium cars. It does give that premium feel when opening and closing the boot.
    Note: This conversion will not modify the boot lid to auto open.
    Please see my other DIY guide which will guide you through to enable this modification
    To convert the Honda Accord boot lid to Gas Strut opening
    DIY Guide Compatibility
    -Honda Accord Saloon 2003-2008 (both diesel and petrol models)
    Chassis codes: CL7 - CL9, CM1 – 6, CN1 and CN2
    Please note: I performed this on a face lift Accord. As I don’t own a pre face lift accord (2003-2005) I am not 100% sure if the boot interior trim etc are exactly the same.

    I won't take any responsibility for and damage or injury. You follow this guide at your own risk.
    If you do not agree, please do not follow this guide.
    This DIY has been written and intended only as a guide.
    There may be other or easier ways of performing a stage.
    Suspension components are a vital part of any car, do not rush and take your time.
    Check and double check all bolts and fittings.


    The current boot lid on the Accord opens via torsion springs which are located underneath the parcel shelf. This torsion springs are twisted and tense under immense pressure to allow the boot lid to stay open.
    The action is pretty lifeless; most premium cars feature a pressurised gas cylinder strut which hold up the boot lid. This lifting action should introduce a little bit of quality when opening and closing the boot.
    This modification will also pair nicely with my other DIY guide to enable the boot lid to auto open from your keyfob.

    Equipment Required

    To get started here is a list of some of the tools you may require
    -Trim Removal Tools
    -Cordless Drill
    -8mm Socket Wrench

    Parts Required

    For the modification here are the parts you require.
    All components are bought from SGS Engineering
    (x2) Fixed Force Gas Strut (State each Strut to be 356newtons/ 80ibs)

    8mm rod 110mm stroke gas strut - GS8-18-110-160

    If You don’t have an OEM spoiler – Gas struts should be fixed at 365 newtons /80 Ibs
    If you do have the OEM spoiler – Gas struts should be fixed at 400 newtons /90 Ibs
    If you have an after market spoiler then you may need to calculate the force require depending on the weight of your after market spoiler



    (x2) 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket
    K9R - 10mm Inside Ball Stud Right Angle Bracket

    (x2) M8 Threaded 10mm Ball Extension
    X4 - 10mm Ball Extension M8 male thread 25mm long

    (x4) 10mm Metal Ball Socket To Fit M6 Thread
    B7 - Metal 10mm Ball Socket 19mm long with a M6 thread

    (x4) M8 Stainless Steel Washer (8.4 x 24 x 2mm)

    (x2) Compression Spring (Spec: 2mm x 13mm x 119.60mm)
    Spring to be cut to size approx 30mm

    Compression Spring 2mm x 13mm x 119.60mm (2pack) | eBay?

    (2x) M8 x 1.25mm pitch Hexagon nuts
    Hexagon Full Nuts Bright Zinc Plated Grade 8, Standard Metric Threads DIN934 | eBay

    Other Parts Required

    -(x4) Self Tapping Screws (No. 10 x 3/8” long (4.8mm x 19mm)
    -(x4) Washers
    -Suitable washers for no 10 self tapping screws
    -Above are usually found in most people’s tool box or garage.
    -Can be bought from eBay easily from the above specifications


    Compression spring below approx 30mm in length

    The Procedure
    Step 1

    Open the boot and begin by removing the spare wheel floor


    You will need to fold the back seats down.


    Once you have done this there should be clips holding the back end of the spare wheel floor. Remove these clips and the floor should come away easily


    Step 2

    Remove the rear plastic boot trim (this unclips quite easily)
    Lift from the bottom and lift away
    The rubber seal edging can be gently lifted away to aid in removal


    Step 3

    Using your trim removal tool remove all the clips shown, start on the rear drivers side boot trim.



    Step 4
    Next stage is to remove the torsion springs
    Hold the hammer as shown and twist as shown, the spring will unhook with a loud jolt.
    Be careful as the springs are held with a lot of pressure.
    Wear eye protection and heavy duty gloves if you have them


    Note: The boot lid will not be supported so either a second helper is required or a long pole to help prop the boot lid up.

    Step 5

    Attach the M8 ball extension through the boot arm where the torsion spring was previously installed. Fasten with the M8 x1.25 pitch nut.
    Use Thread lock if you have some.
    Ensure the ball link is installed facing the out side of the car with reference to the boot arm looking forward.
    Excuse the pic – I didn’t snap one with the ball extension fastened on its own.


    Step 6

    Attach the 10mm Metal Ball Sockets to both ends of the Fixed Force Gas Strut.


    Step 7

    Remove ball link retaining clip and then attach one end of the gas strut to the boot arm M8 ball link – snap into place (keep retaining clip safe – will be needed later to finalize install)


    Step 8

    Remove ball link retaining clip and the attach the opposite end to the 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket – snap into place (keep retaining clip safe – will be needed later to finalize install)

    Step 9

    With the boot lid fully open, position the 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket as shown below.
    Ensure there is no additional play.
    Whilst the bracket is in this position mark the holes ready for drilling


    Step 10

    Drill the marked holes – Drill a pilot hole first (approx 1mm) and then secondary hole (approx 3mm) for the self tapping screw to bite sufficiently

    Step 11

    Detach the gas strut from the 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket and screw into position as shown below using No.10 self taping screws together with its washer.


    Step 12

    Remove the 10mm Metal Ball Socket on the 8mm rod end of the gas strut
    Install the m8 washer and 30mm compression spring through the rod as shown below
    Re-install the 10mm metal ball socket


    Note: Without this spring the boot will not pop open slightly when the boot is released. This will not enable the warning sound when the car’s ignition is on and the boot is released.

    Step 13

    Re-attach gas strut to 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket – snap into place
    Fit ball link retaining clips to bracket and boot arm joints.
    These prevent the ball sockets coming loose.


    Step 14
    Repeat for the other opposite side

    Step 15

    Prior to replacing all interior trim make sure you test the boot lid action.
    Ensure the gas struts hold the boot lid up

    Step 16

    Re-install all the interior trim – reverse process of removal.
    Re-test boot lid action per side to ensure there is no interference or any interior trim etc.
    Adjust trim if required.
    Gas Struts completed




    -Re-installing the Torsion Springs is extremely difficult without the specified tool. Please bare this in mind.
    -Without the 30mm compression spring on the gas strut rod, it will not enable the warning sound when the boot is release whilst the car is on or in pre ignition.
    -Ensure the retaining clips are inserted through the ball joints otherwise the gas strut can come loose
    -Copper grease can be used on the ball links to prevent any seizing on noise
    Many thanks for reading and I hope this guide has helped you :Smile:

    Version: 1.0

    --------------------------- END OF PROCEDURE ---------------------------
    aznspidey, painterman and Ichiban like this.

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  1. wahabishtiaq
  2. Ichiban
    Superb mate, Next one the bonnet :)
  3. SpeedyGee
    Top work and another fab guide