To quote from the Haynes Manuals:-
“Frequent oil changes are the best preventative maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because aging oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear”.
These are the official Honda instructions for an oil change on the 7th Generation
Engine oil Sump
1. Warm up the engine.
2. Remove the maintenance lid (A).
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Torque settings within the pictures
3. Remove the drain bolt (B), and drain the engine oil.
4. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (C).
5. Refill with the recommended oil.
4.0 [liter] (4.2 US qt, 3.5 Imp qt) at oil change.
4.2 [liter] (4.4 US qt, 3.7 Imp qt) at oil change including filter.
5.3 [liter] (5.6 US qt, 4.7 Imp qt) after engine overhaul.
6. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
1. Remove the oil filter with the special oil filter wrench.
2. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on the engine block, then apply a light coat of oil to the filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system
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3. Install the oil filter by hand.
4. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool.
Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise.
Tightening torque: 12 N•m (1.2 kgf•m, 8.7 lbf•ft)
5. If 4 numbers (1 to 4) are printed around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter.
• Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the block, and note which number is at the bottom.
• Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise 3 numbers from the one you noted. For example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the number 1 comes around the bottom. This is illustrated in the following table
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6. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
This is how I change the oil on my 7th Generation 2.4 petrol Accord.
The job should be done when the engine is warm as the oil flows better.
Raise the car http://hondakarma.com/threads/199/.
Put some old sheets/curtains/lino/plastic sheeting down to protect your driveway from oil stains.
Remove the 3 x 10mm bolts at the back of the plastic engine guard
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Using a screwdriver gently pry out the two plastic clips about a foot further forward
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And let the back of the cover hang down to expose the sump drain bolt.
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Loosen the bolt using a 17mm socket on a breaker bar or ratchet or a 17mm spanner.
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Once ‘cracked’ the bolt can be undone the rest of the way by hand, but make sure you have a bucket or other receptacle underneath first.
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Remove the bolt and let the old oil come out.
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Eventually the flow reduces to a trickle and then drips before eventually stopping altogether although I didn’t wait that long.
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Put a new washer on the sump bolt, matt side upwards as this is the soft side which will be crushed against the sump, hard shiny side down against the bolt as that won’t be crushed.
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Clean around the bolt hole with a cloth and then screw the bolt back in until hand tight
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Then tighten it with a torque wrench to 44Nm.
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Check out the old oil.
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Get the oil filter removal tool ready. They come in different shapes and sizes. This one fits on the end of the ratchet from my socket set.
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Rub a bit of clean oil on the rubber seal of the new oil filter. You do this to make sure the filter gets a good seal when you put it on the car to avoid leaks.
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Some people also put some new oil in the new filter so it circulates quicker on first startup, although I don’t do that.
Underneath the car, here is the old filter, on the back of the engine on the right hand side.
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Put the oil filter removal tool on and twist anticlockwise, again just enough to loosen it.
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Place a receptacle such as an old roasting tray underneath the filter.
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Then unscrew the filter by hand and when oil comes out the bottom and flows down catch it in the tray.
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Take the filter off and clean up the rest of the oil from the driveshaft and anywhere else it has gone.
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This is where the filter came off…the rubber seal goes against the outer circular base and the hole in the filter screws on to the protruding threaded pipe in the middle. I always clean this circular base with a cloth and then rub some new engine oil on it, again to ensure a good seal.
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Screw on the new filter…I’m using an OEM Honda one this time instead of the HAMP one I used last time…and twist it until it is as tight as it will go by hand…I find that is tight enough without having to tighten it further using a tool.
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Put the plastic undertray back on the engine by replacing the 2 x plastic clips and 3 x 10mm bolts and then lower the car.
Pour the new oil into the engine using a funnel.
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You can’t beat clean new oil going into your engine.
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Keep pouring until the level is on max on the dipstick which will use most of a 5 litre can. Start the car then after a few seconds switch off. This will have reduced the oil level so top it up again. Start up again and have a quick check underneath for leaks. If there are none then you’re done.
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Pour the old oil into a container for disposal at the Council tip next time you’re going that way.
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I didn’t use latex gloves, but their use is highly recommended as used engine oil contains carcinogenic and poisonous chemicals, and essential if you work on cars often.
The oil I used was Exol 0W 30 Optima Longlife 98 fully synthetic ester/PAO based oil Synthetic, Motor Oil, Fully Synthetic, Lubrication, Lube Tech, High performance,, bought from our affiliated oil trader Lubetechshop.co.uk in a 25 litre drum, using the AOC members discount.
The genuine Honda oil filter part no. 15400-RBA-F01.