Changing fuel filter

EP2/EU8 - D16V1

  1. Nighthawk
    Difficulty Level:
    There is not a single guide online that I could find that shows how to change the fuel filter on these cars so I thought I would do as detailed one as what I possibly could so that anyone searching for a "how to" would be directed to the only written guide for an EP2/EU8 filter change and therefore this forum. I have changed many fuel filters before, but never changed a fuel filter on these cars before or come across this design so it was a learning experience for me.

    I don't understand Honda's design for the placement of its fuel filter - such a complicated design for a part which requires servicing. I don't understand why they didnt keep it in line like they used to, and how other Japanese manufacturers still do, but hey, here we are.

    DISCLAIMER - This is obviously going to involve contact with fuel and vapours and by its nature, is volatile. You do this at your own risk acknowleding the health risks associated with inhalation of vapours. If you are not comfortable dealing with the hazards of open fuel containers and vapours, please do not risk a fire and hurting yourself or others and take it into a garage.

    Also, do this on a low tank, I was just below quarter.

    - Phillips screwdriver
    - Couple of clean rags
    - Nitrile gloves (petrol is nasty stuff on your hands)
    - Thin flat screwdriver
    - 10mm spanner
    - Plastic/metal container to put the fuel assembly into when you remove it

    TIME: 2 hours (first time around for me with this particular design)

    STEP 1:

    Leave the car overnight to allow the fuel pressure in the lines to drop a bit. When you are ready to get started, open the fuel cap to release any more pressure, disconnect the car battery and remove the back seat of the car - this involves just removing a 10mm bolt between the base and the upright of the back seats in the middle. Pull up the front of the seats and it will pop out and you can then remove it from the car

    You will then be faced with this


    STEP 2:

    Remove the 4 screws with the philips screwdriver and pull the cover up gently just a little bit as there is an electrical connector below it. Reach in, press the tab in and unclip it, then pull the cover totally free. You are then, in my case, faced with a rather dirty fuel pump assembly. The filter sits on top of this assembly.



    STEP 3:

    You now need to disconnect the fuel line. In order to do this, you need to press two tabs in on either side of the top of the fuel filter and pull the line away gently. Put a cloth between the line and the top of the filter to catch any fuel which is still in the lines.



    Note the white securing clip. This needs to be taken off at some point prior to finishing the install of the new filter.

    STEP 4:

    The plastic ring needs removing. Honda has a special tool for this, and if you are so minded, you could make your own, however this is just screwed on. Watch the metal around the opening as its straight metal and is not curved on the edges so it will cut you very easily. I tried to turn the ring by hand intially, but it wouldn't budge, so I resorted to using a small flat screwdriver and tapped it lightly. This worked fine and after a few minutes of LIGHT tapping, it came free enough so I could turn it by hand.

    And removed -


    STEP 5:

    Before you go any further, put your gloves on if you havent already, make sure the doors are all wide open for ventilation, and clean around the fuel filter to prevent the risk of anything falling into the tank once you remove the fuel assembly unit.

    The unit is held in place with a rubber seal, so grab the unit and twist it slightly and it will break its hold. Now, get your plastic/metal container (I used a bucket), and get it close to hand, along with a plastic bag.

    To get the filter assembly out was a bit of a pest. Grab the filter assembly, and tilt it towards the centre of the car whilst pulling upwards GENTLY. This will cause the lower part of the assembly to bend away from you allowing the filter to come out of the hole. Once the filter portion is out, tilt the entire unit straight up and pull the lower section out and then bend it sharply to the left to allow the fuel float to come out and put it straight into the bucket to stop fuel getting all over your carpet. No pictures of this as it was pretty awkward.

    Once this is free, you can see into the tank.


    Mop up the excess fuel spilled. I personally decided to put a plastic bag over the hole to stop anything accidentally falling inside, fire risk and to stop evaporation and the smell.

    STEP 6:

    Take the fuel assembly and place it on a cloth to help soak up any excess and start disassembly. Wonder in awe what Honda were thinking when they designed this...

    Make sure to be gentle with the fuel float assembly (black bit) - its sensitive and can get damaged easily.

    You need to remove two lines and three electrical connections prior to removing the fuel filter itself which is the uppermost part of the entire unit.

    At this time, I am happy to state that I do not know each component on this, I do not know which line is the feed and return so please excuse me as I try to explain the best I can.

    STEP 7: Line One

    This line is to the far left of the picture above and is held in place by a two clips. Take your flat screwdriver and pop the clips open and move the main clip out of the way.


    To the left of the above pictures, there is a further plastic clip. Push this in, and slide the connector out. Pop it free of the metal hose and remove the three electrical cables. You will then have this.

    Replace the O-ring (new ones included in the new filter)

    STEP 8:

    There are three connectors on the base of the top of the filter, unclip these.


    Be careful of the clips, they are quite brittle.

    Once the three connectors are free, get your screwdriver and pop the filter assembly off the base by holding the filter around 90 degree up from the base and levering it off with the blade of the screwdriver.


    STEP 9: Line Two

    The second hose is pretty obvious and connects onto the base directly under where the filter was connected. Again, pop off the clips and lever out the connector.


    Replace this O-ring. I found it easier to put the O-ring over the base rather than putting it inside of the connector.

    With everything disconnected, you will now have this


    STEP 10:

    Grab your new OEM filter


    Love the "Made in Japan" on the sticker


    There is a blanking plate installed on the new filter for the third electrical connector. Remove this, and make sure that the o-ring is still inside on the filter. The pack only contains 2 o-rings for the lines, the third one is preinstalled on the filter


    STEP 11:

    Start to reassemble the unit. With the new O-Rings in place, clip both lines back in and put all three electrical connectors back in place. The filter itself just clips back onto the base. Replace the wires and pipes back into their little tidy clips. Remember to transfer across the rubber seal before you clip the unit back together again.

    STEP 12:

    Remove the plastic outlet hose clip from the old filter and put it on the new filter.


    STEP 13:

    Put the fuel assembly back into the tank, levering it in at an angle so the fuel float clears the entrance, and then drop it down vertically for the base to clear, before angling it towards you again, dropping the filter itself in. Put the plastic ring in place and tighten the unit back up again before plugging the outlet hose back in again, making sure it seats correctly onto the above plastic clip.

    STEP 14:

    Plug the electrical connector back in, keep the metal cover off and reconnect the battery. Prime the pump by turning the car onto ACC for a few seconds, and then off again. Do this 3 or 4 times, and you will hear the fuel pump whining as it pressurises the system again. Hold your breath and turn the key.

    IF you have not connected the hose correctly, you will know it within a split second. Fuel system is high pressure and a leak will be immediately obvious.

    Job done
    Ichiban likes this.

Recent Reviews

  1. Smokingman
    A good review, however I would like to add-as it’s a plastic tank I would screw the locking collar back on while carrying out the work and be quick. Reason the tank may deform preventing the replacement of locking collar (it’s happened to me on another car). I would also see about the correct tool to remove locking collar as tabs can brake off!

    1. Nighthawk
      Author's Response
      The locking collar was placed over the tank as the pictures show. Using the tool to remove it is ideal, but a screwdriver works just as well if you are careful
  2. Nels
    Another top notch guide. Thank you.
  3. Ichiban
    Bravo , well done Rich.