Decided today it was time to try changing the fuel filter...
First up..picked up the part from Honda in Galway.
For the Fuel filter, i believe it is fairy important to go genuine.
Take off the acoustic over. Its help by 4x capped nuts (10mm socket) .make sure not to drop any of the washers into the engine bay.
If you lift it straight off you should have a problem but if in doubt use one of these magnetic tools to collect them.
-Next job. You need to remove the air cleaner unit.Some people do this and some people don't.
It gives you a little more room so i popped it out.
Firstly if your engine is dirty, it may be an idea to clean around the cleaner unit.
The last thing you want is dirt getting in once its removed.
Ok -disconnect the MAF sensor and place out of the way.This is at the rear side of the air cleaner.
The cleaner is held by 2x socket screws (12mm socket). There a wee bit down so you will need an extension.
As before make sure not to drop these. Magnet tool might come in handy here again.
Next you need to loosen the pipe fastener beside the MAF socket.You can use a philips for this.
Note there is a green mark on it for re-tightening when your putting it back in.
now carefully pull the hose from either end of the cleaner unit.
It takes a little bit of fiddling to pull the unit out from the engine bay but it will come out.
I think i have read other DIY saying to remove the battery etc for this..
Its probably a good idea to cover the air hosing so debris doesn't get into them. I just used two plastic bags..
I bought an air filter too so when its out - you may as well change the filter before putting it back in.
Now to the area of interest. The fuel filter assembly. During this procedure you are required to do alot leaning into the car engine bay. Make sure your not wearing clothing or have items in your pockets that may scrape your car.. trackies with no zips perhaps (all in this season apparently)
First things first : you need to remove the primer guard bracket.
In the previous image you will see that these are held by two 10mm screws. You will prob need an extension to reach in to these.
Once this is out you will need to remove the bracket itself. It is held by 2x socket screws (10mm socket) also. You will have to lean down to see this.
When i did this i firstly i removed the screw directly behind the priming bulb itself. I use a combination of extensions and a universal joint connection.
For the screw on the left, i popped the priming bulb out of its holster so i could get a good angle with socket. again use a universal joint.
apologies my finger got in the way a bit on this one.
Before you remove the bracket, unclip the hose on the right hand side .see white hose clip.
After this. you should be able to pull it out.
Now its time to tackle the filter and its bracket.
Next probably the best thing to do is remove the screws holding the filter backet back to the fire wall. I did this slightly
differently but i think this may be a better way..first time and all that!
You will need multipe extensions for this if you only have a small set like me.. and also that univeral joint again.
This can easily fall into the bay and be lost so be carefull. I used the trusty mangetic tool again to ensure this didnt happen.
Ok now i disconnected the filter from the bracket via the two screws on the top. You should be able to pull the assebly towards you slightly now to get
at them (especially the back one) I did this with the bracket in situ so i was a little more difficult. I used a combination of a tommy bar, universal joint and socket to get at these.
Ok its now time to dis-connect the sensors.
The easiest sensor to disconnect is the one right on the top. This is the temp sensor i believe.This one is positioned between the inlet and outlet of the filter.
Next dis-connect the two on the right hand side below this.they are on a snap fitting that you need to depress, then slide off. The smallest one on the bottom is the water sensor and connects to the bottom of the filter.
When you get these disconnected you will also need to declip then from the bracket so you can remove the filter.
The temp sensor is also fixed by a little yellow snap fitting to the bracket. The back of this is facing you so you can get in with a long pliers to remove this.
When pulling out the filter make sure you don't snag the water sensor connection.
I moved the filter into the air cleaner area so i could worked on it a little easier. you should be able to see the sensor connections in this one.
Take a note of how the pipes connect to the filter. you will need to remember this when you re-connect.. tag with insulating tape if your forgetful..
Next job is to disconnnect the hosing and remove. I used some hoseclips here but you may not need them.(i wasnt sure so i used them).also have rags at the ready in case of spillages.Pack around the filter as below
once clamped. use a pliers to open the pipe clips and move them clear.
Now remove the hosing. May be an idea to have something ready to collect an diesel that may come out.
Arch the filter back to retain the fuel inside the filter until you clear of the car.
next its dismantle and replace time... before that it also may be an idea to empty some of the fuel out of the filter before working on it.
You will need a bench vice for the next bit ... (well it makes it a little easier i'd say...)
Once in place. remove the water sensor fixing screw. I used a slip joint wrench for this but others may have a proper tool for this.
Its an idea to have a container at the ready to collect further fuel that may come out.
Next, its time to remove the old filter. This was quite tight.. More that the specifed torgue anyway (perhaps this happens though)
I moved to using a slightly larger slip joint wrench (size matters sometimes). There is a Honda tool for this but its crazzzy money.
I would welcome other ideas on how to remove and replace these filters..
Again have that container ready!...
Now its off.. good stuff...
Now its refitting time. The filter is meant to be torqued to 17.2 NM +/-2.5 (so says the filter)
Make sure the new seal is fitted filter before fitting. Should be there when you buy it..
Again the Honda tool would have been useful here. I used a strap type filter wrench but im sure there are better ways....
You have got to be really careful when tightening to you don't damage the filter. I would suggest locating the strap or tool as close to the fluted end as it will be more resistent to the compresssive nature of these tools...
Open to suggestions as to the best alternative on this...
now replace the water sensor screw. Note when you bought the filter you got a new sealing o-ring for this too so make sure
to put it on also...!
Refer to the previous images on which pipes to connect where.
do mix up your inlet/outlet... hint..the bigger pipe is the feed to the engine.this is connected to the higher filter connection. wink
Im not sure its required on these filters but when reconnecting.
I connected the lower filter connection and the priming pump first. The fastening clip was refitted as disconnected using a pliers. I connected the other filter connection (higher side/engine feedlline side) to some spare clean hosing i had in the tool shed.
The other end of this "spare hosing" was placed in a bucket outside the car on the ground.. I loosed the hose clamp tool on this line and then pressed the priming pump repeatedly untill the filter was full and diesel was flowing out of the hose.
once complete i removed the "spare hosing" connected to the higher connection of the filter and replaced with the actual feedline hose to the engine as removed in the first place. The fastening cip was reconnected using a pliers.
After this Putting it back in the car is the reverse of the removal.
One more helpful hint...
when putting back in screws that require extensions and universal joints etc (where there is fair chance of that screw falling)
....use some tissue paper in your socket to secure the screw..
I found with screwing back in the filter bracket that using a flexible extension initially as a screwdriver helped alot.when tighten just hook on the ratchet. you will need to support the bracket also. This one i found to be a bit of a pain with this been the best option i found
When everything is back in... press the priming pump until rock hard ... make sure no fuel is leaking anywhere.
start you engine... mine started first time thankfully.
saw this on another forum.. it recommended the following...
Rev to about 2k for a couple of minutes...let idle ..if the idle dips...rev at 2k again and leave iding you check for leaks etc...
take for test spin....