I couldn't find a guide for the rear brakes, so I've put this together as it may help others.
- Difficulty Level:
- Get genuine Honda parts. They are better than the rest. (front and rear shown, as I changed both)
- Jack and Axle Stands - If you're going under the car, these need to be up to the job !
The wedges are home made.
- Tools - These are the tools I used. You should also wear a mask and gloves - it gets very dusty!
In addition, 2 buckets or some string.
- Find a level, hard, stable place to jack the car up. The rear jacking point is shown in the red circle.
Place the wedges in front of the front wheels, and put the car in gear. Release the hand brake.
- Axle stands are positioned on the green DOT, in the green circle.
6 Loosen the wheel nuts on the rear wheels before jacking the car up. Place an old rag / cloth on the trolley jack head, and then jack the car up slowly. Once it is high enough, place the axle stands on each side, again with an old rag between the car and the stand. SLOWLY lower the jack. I like to stop before the car reaches the stands and check the position. If all is ok, continue lowering until the weight of the car is on the stands.
- Remove both wheels
- Use a 14mm ring spanner or socket on the orange nut, and a 15mm open ended spanner on the blue nut, to remove the orange nut.
There is another set of nuts on the bottom of the capiler, remove that too. Although there are new ones in the kit, keep these safely, you may need them later. ( I use the magnetic tray )
Gently tap or wiggle the caliper body off the disc. Either rest it on the upturned bucket, or tie it up. DO NOT BEND OR TWIST THE BRAKE HOSE or HANDBRAKE CABLE !
- Remove the two pads.
- Remove the two red bolts holding the caliper bracket on ( I forgot to take a photo of this, but the one below shows the lower bolt position, after assembly)
- Remove the 2 cross head screws (red arrows) to release the disc. To do this, use and impact driver, set to the left position. Hit the driver firmly, until the screw is loose. Then unscrew and keep safely. (By this stage, even with gloves on I didn't want to use the camera so I've marked the screws on a previous shot) The disc should then pull off. If it doesn't, then use the two bolts from (8) above (circled in orange) in the other 2 bolt holes on the disc, to push it off. A couple of firm taps with a mallet around the disc may also help.
- Once the disc is removed, screw the wheel nuts back onto the studs to protect them from damage. Now clean the dust shield and behind the studs. There are brake cleaners available, but I used some white spirits in a bowl and an old paintbrush. Do not get any white spirit on any rubber components. I'm not sure if it will damage them. The next photo shows the dust shield and caliper body after they were painted. I have also smeared a little copper grease over the stud plate, to help with removal in the future.
- Remove the slider pins and boots from the caliper bracket. Clean off all old grease and apply a coating of slider pin grease to the pins and inside the boots. I cleaned the caliper brackets with white spirits and when dry, painted them.
- The slider pin sockets were also greased, and then re-assembled.
- The new disc can now be fitted and held in place with the 2 cross head screws. ENSURE YOU FIT THEM TO THE COUNTERSUNK HOLES IN THE DISC.
Re-fit the caliper bracket and sliders to the car.
- The pads can now be installed, with a little grease on the end hooks - greenish colour in photo. Apply a thin smear of red rubber grease to the rubber around the piston.Re-wind the caliper piston using the special tool. Apply a smear of grease to the piston face and the metal plates on the pads - printed side. Then re-fit the caliper , using the new bolts from the kit.
- I like to apply a smear of grease to the disc surface by the studs, to reduce rusting and prevent the wheel from sticking.
- Refit the wheel. I did both sides at the same time, to speed things up, and make it easier for me. I also cleaned sealed and re-waxed the alloys before re-fitting
Note: All bolts should be tightened to the specified torque settings, as in the posting by Ichiban:
Vital Brakes Maintenance Information • Honda Karma
It is also advisable to bleed the braking system and check / adjust the handbrake when the discs are changed. Some before and after photos:
You can now have a cup of tea, you deserve it for reading through this
If you spot any errors, please let me know.