Throttle Cable Replacement


  1. Nighthawk
    Difficulty Level:
    Following on from cleaning the throttle body (Throttle Body Cleaning) on the little EP2, it was vastly improved, but during the hot weather, it would stick again. A bit of trouble shooting led me to the throttle cable which was sticking under mild pressure causing the car to jerk. So, a new cable was ordered and a quick DIY to follow:

    Incidentally, the cable fits the 1.4 engines as well, same part number so this will cover those cars as well. Fitting a cable is pretty simple, if you have ever changed a brake cable on a bicycle, its the same principle here, just a bit dirtier.

    - Common Sense
    - 8, 10 and 12 mm sockets as well as a 12mm open ended wrench

    +/- 30 mins

    STEP 1: Get new cable ordered - mine had to specially be ordered from Japan :Grin:

    STEP 2: Remove the throttle cable from the accelerator cable. I covered this in the thread diagnosis of the car, but for ease of reference,

    Remove the under dashboard trim to allow for better access and pull the white tab which you can see on the side of the accelerator pedal towards you. Have the pedal in its resting position. This is obviously taken outside of the car just to show where the clip is positioned. It just pops off.



    Once the clip has popped free, pull the accelerator cable towards you by the silver tab and move it out of the slot

    Remove the accelerator pedal by removing the 2x 12mm nuts.

    STEP 3:

    With the pedal removed, you need to grab the plastic lugnut and turn it anti clockwise a quarter turn. Its not that easy due to it having a rubber seal which over the years has formed a close relationship with the footwell of the car. The plastic is pretty tough so give it a good wrench. It will eventually loosen like this:


    STEP 4:

    Pop the bonnet and remove the air filter assembly. This is again simple and covered in my throttle body cleaning DIY.

    Unclip the sensor:


    Unclip the top of the filter box and remove the three 10mm bolts and the breather tube.


    Loosen the 8mm bolt securing the base of the filter onto the throttle body

    Pull the air filter assembly up and remove from the car. You will now have easy access to the rear of the throttle body to remove the cable.

    STEP 4:

    Unclip the accelerator cable from the clips.


    STEP 5:

    Open the throttle with your thumb and forefinger to force the cable to slacken and to allow it to be released through its access hole and pull it free . This is exactly the same principle as releasing a cable from your bike handlebars. No different at all.


    STEP 6:

    Loosen off the 12mm nut from the throttle cable and remove it from its bracket. This is a picture of the new one as I didnt take one of the old but its the same.

    STEP 7:

    Pull the cable around and release it from the clips which are underneath the brake master reserviour.


    Now, go into the cabin and pull through the firewall and into the cabin. It will get snagged every now and then, so just go back under the bonnet, release the snag and wiggle it back through.

    Fitting is the opposite of reverse. I had to use some WD40 to help secure the plastic lugnut back into position.

    I also removed all the old grease from the accelerator pedal and put fresh polycote onto it.

    As mentioned, fitting is the reversal of removal.


    Not sure of the official way of doing this, but I have always adjusted throttles the same way and never had any problems. The skill of this is not having it too loose, if it is, it can wrap around itself and result in either an open throttle (really not a good thing) or no throttle depending on where it binds itself up, or making it too tight, so that the throttle never fully closes.

    With everything tightened back up again and the cable reattached, have around a 10mm flex on the cable from where it leaves the end of the cable to attach to the throttle body spindle - circled in blue. 10mm is a lot, but its just to get it in the starting position as such.

    To detail this picture, the blue circle is the cable obviously, the yellow one is the adjusting nut, and the red one is the securing nut.


    Leave the securing nut loose, and concentrate on adjusting the yellow circled adjusting nut. If you spin it towards you, you will loosen the throttle cable on the throttle body spindle as you are lengthening the shaft, if you spin it away from you, you will tighten it as you are shortening the cable. Spin it all the way away from you, and hold the cable on the bracket where the throttle is closed still and adjust it up until it hits the bracket. Wind down the securing bolt and test and see how much play you have in the cable. I had around 5-8mm flex.

    With the engine off, pull the cable vertically just a bit and see how much it takes to open the throttle. This will define the sensitivity of your accelerator cable so adjust it to how you feel comfortable. Make sure that the cable is relaxed enough so it isnt constantly pulling on the throttle spindle and leaving it partly open, but not too relaxed where it becomes a hazard.

    Mine is adjusted as above, a gentle touch on the accelerator is enough to make her rev.

    Start the engine up, let her warm up so the auto choke disengages and she drops to normal operating temperature revs and check your work.

    Job done.
    exec, RogerH69 and Nels like this.

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  1. SpeedyGee
    Another superb guide mate !!
  2. RogerH69
    Great guide as always. Thanks
  3. Anonymous
    Great job. Thank you for sharing.