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A super quick guide for you today!
This guide looks at 2 ways to remove throttle pedal play and tighten up throttle response. This is simply by removing slack in the throttle cable.
This problem can be noticed as a lack of response from the throttle over the first few mm of travel. The pressure will be very light and the engine won't respond. This is as the cable isn't being pulled, just the pedal spring. The pedal will then engage and the engine will respond. Its not a serious problem and has no negative effects. Just bothers a perfection freak like me .
Tools and Parts
In order to carry out this job you will need as a minimum:
- A pair of mole grips or good pliers.
- A small spanner
Method 2 (reccomended):
- A small phillips screwdriver
- A torch
- Some small rubber washers or grommets
Method 1 (Didn't work in my case)
This method is likely how it is meant to be done and how a garage would do it. In my case the cable housing was seized so I could not do it this way. I could have forced it but I did not want to risk damaging my expensive Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). So this description is short!
You should be able to adjust the throttle cable tension at the TPS, which in the N22A diesels is on the right top of the engine bay. Petrols may be different.
Using the mole grips and spanner, loosen the cable end from the TPS and rotate it so the cable sheath moves away from the TPS body.
Once the slack is gone from the pedal, retighten the retaining bolt against the TPS body.
With both of these methods, once you have finished making adjustments start the engine and check that the throttle is returning to idle. (Not the diesels do sit above idle when cold by design). It will be harder to confirm with this method.
So my plan B was to adjust the cable at the pedal.
1. Remove lower dash trim
In order to get to the top of the pedal you need to remove 2 trim panels below the steering wheel. There is one small philips screw at the lower right that needs to be removed.
Then pull off the upper trim panel, this is held on with clips and comes off quite easily.
Once this is out unplug the switches from the right hand side (VSA and Light trim in my case).
It is possible to leave these plugged in during this job. Up to you as unplugging the VSA switch may log a silent error, not sure.
Once the top panel is clear, push the lower panel down from on top, it unclips and then pulls out forwards.
2. Cable Adjustment
Now comes the "Engineered" part.
The throttle cable connection to the pedal can be clearly seen with a bit of light. Press the pedal and see how it works.
The cable goes through the pedal, then through a rubber shock absorber (Black) and ends with the cable end stopper (Grey).
My solution was to simply cut a slot into a rubber grommet, then pull out the cable end by and and slip it onto the bare cable. This then acts as a spacer and takes out some slack between the cable end and the shock rubber. (The pic above shows it with my new spacer installed)
You may need to experiment with different sizes, thicknesses and quantities of grommets or washers. I cut mine to size exactly, its also got a plastic outer on to hold it on better.
At this stage you can test the adjustment thanks to the rubber shock on the pedal.
Start the engine.
Push against the end stopper on the cable. If the revs lower then your spacer is too big and the cable is too tight.
If there is still play in the throttle then it is too small.
Experiment and get it right!
4. Replacement of panels
The replacement is just the opposite of removal, don't forget the little screw on the right! Also the lower panel hooks onto a rubber stud at the back of the footwell.
Thats it! Happy motoring.