Engine & Gearbox Clatter at idle

Discussion in 'Imports & Worldwide' started by Whisker Version, Tuesday 14th Aug, 2018.

  1. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    I've noticed a loud clatter or clanking at idle coming from my StepWGN when I'm paying for fuel, almost like something loose reaching a resonant frequency. I am quite concerned about it. The sound bounces of the nearby wall of the kiosk and through the window as I'm travelling at a few MPH. I'm worried the sound might be gearbox, but I don't know why really. I took the auxiliary belt off a few weeks ago, and the tensioner, power steering pump, and alternator bearings were solid, so I suppose that would leave the water pump and air con compressor to check? I suppose it could also be something like an exhaust heat shield, but it really is loud. It could be there when I'm driving at speed, too, but it is just going unheard...I need a wall and the windows down to hear it.

    Has anyone got any suggestions for lines of inquiry? The oil in the gearbox is a nice clear red, so I didn't think it needed changing, but the car has just gone over 60k miles, so I perhaps should change it as a matter of course, and I have a new filter to fit. What is the correct oil to get and should I go to Honda for it?
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    I should add (can't edit yet), I have the 4-speed conventional auto gearbox.
     
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  2. jd1959 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Ireland Zack Kilkenny
    511
    301
    Could you do up a video to demonstrate the noise?

    Have the valves been adjusted recently? When cold even if right it can sound a bit like an old typewriter getting quieter when warm? The EVAP purge solenoid can make a loud rhythmic ticking on some of them annoying but normal there are a few videos that would show you that noise.

    I guess take the belt off and run the engine that will determine if its off any of the pulley system. If not then start trying to rule out other systems.
    The injectors can be noisy as well while you have the belt off put a towel over them it might help again to isolate the sound.

    The transmission is the same as the 4AT used in the 2WD CR-V pretty solid and rarely has issues. If its shifting correctly and the fluid looks/smells good I would look elsewhere first.

    Your looking for 3L ATF DW1 from Honda if your doing the line filter you'll need a 4th bottle but you'll only use 100-200ml of it. It's really suggested to use Honda ATF only in the Auto boxes. The filter I'd get from Honda as well the spurious one I got didn't have a bypass valve in it, might not be a problem if you keep changing it but better safe than sorry for an extra tenner.
     
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  3. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    Good idea about recording the sound. I might slowly drive over my mobile phone. Watch this space.
    I had the car in neutral last night and revved the engine whilst standing outside the car, with the bonnet up but I couldn't hear the clank noise, so I think the injectors are not the culprit.
     
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  4. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    https://instaud.io/2zeb
    The noise occurs about 4 seconds in, but it was hard to reproduce.
    I put my phone under the car. Now I hear it from this position and through a microphone, it sounds more of a rattle than a clank.
    I'm going to put the car on ramps tomorrow to check the security of the heat shields.
     
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  5. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
    4,389
    2,774
    3
    if me picking the sound up right it is a rattle...
     
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  6. jd1959 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Ireland Zack Kilkenny
    511
    301
    While your under it checking the heat shields give any metal pipes a shake as well to rule out them slapping.

    Take it with a grain of salt but that is very similar to how mine sounded when the spring on the belt tensioner went when the bearing was ok. On mine really only happened when the ac compressor was on or creeping slowly in a line of traffic. Very much like this one or this one

    Easy enough to check h have a look at the tensioner assembly while the engine is running with the ac and ights and anything else to put a load on it. There really shouldn't be much movement at all and if your rattle matches the movement its most likely the problem.
     
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  7. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    I went under yesterday, and the probable cause of a noise was that the 360° heat shield/reflector around the catalytic converter had rusted away at three of the four bolts which hold the two halves together. I had some "make your own hose clamp" material around so I have banded the two halves together so they can't flap. I'm fortunate I didn't lose the bottom half entirely. The parts (18181-RTA-000, and 18182-RTA-000) are expensive if ebay is to be believed, so it can live as it is for the rest of its days. If the reflector were taken away, I wouldn't be surprised if the engine management light would come on because the cat doesn't get up to operating temperature. I appreciate your support.
     
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  8. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    I've gone and bought the wrong filter!
    upload_2018-8-29_19-33-41.
    Silly me. Goodness knows where it is meant to go!

    With the cylindrical shape one, how did you find out it didn't have an internal PRV? I can't see a way of triggering it without blindly sticking something thin down the hose connections.
    The price seems to vary between the £5 and £35 depending on whether it is the OEM part or not. It would be a bit galling to pay that much more for something that was the same as the £5 version.
    upload_2018-8-29_19-36-1.
     
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  9. Whisker Version Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Bristol
    32
    12
    Apparently, there are loads of fakes out there, so even if you have the red Honda sticker on your ATF filter, you might not have the genuine part.
    According to a Russian website, the Chinese one they disassembled did have a PRV, but it was built the wrong way round!
    They also give this handy tip to spot a genuine label under UV light. The left says original, and the right says poddelka, which is counterfeit. There's a bit of learning for everyone!

    upload_2018-8-29_20-6-49.
     
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  10. jd1959 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Ireland Zack Kilkenny
    511
    301
    The internal filter you got is changed only when the transmission is out of the car and being worked on, new clutch plates or something like that. Hopefully I'll never need one.

    Anyway I found out mine was fake after use by taking an angle grinder to it just out of curiosity after seeing some of the reports you probably ran across. I guess the only way to be sure of a genuine one is to purchase from your local friendly Honda parts department.

    In the case of the filter my guess is that if it fills with enough gunk to get that bypass to open the transmission is pretty much junk anyway. They aren't on any service schedule I know of and are probably meant to last the lifetime of the transmission.

    Good to know about the UV on the stickers.
     
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