Suspension, Steering and Brakes Dragging rear caliper

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Stuart, Wednesday 25th Nov, 2015.

  1. Stuart Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Stuart

    '54 Tourer Exec, 153k miles

    Back in May, at 143k miles, the NSR caliper seized and was replaced. At the time, I asked the mechanic (the garage owner) if the OSR one would need doing and he opined that it probably would sooner rather than later.

    I check the fuel consumption at nearly every fill-up and MPG jumped back up to the mid-40's after the NSR caliper replacement. When it began falling again recently, a quick check of the OSR disc revealed it was much hotter than the other three. The OSR caliper was replaced last week.

    Unfortunately, I had to set off almost immediately on another long trip, when I didn't have a chance to check the fuel consumption; however, the return trip revealed that MPG was lower than it should've been and, when I stopped to fill up, I burnt a finger on the OSR disc when all the others were quite cool. And, when I checked the fuel receipts, the MPG is still down.

    I'll obviously be speaking to the garage owner (who was away last week when the caliper was replaced):-

    . One thing I notice from the invoice is that possibly the OSR caliper is a different make from the NSR? Two different part number formats and the NSR was £58 in May while the OSR was £75 last week! :Aghast:

    . Anything else in the braking system that could fail and cause one rear caliper to drag?

    Also, the MOT is due soon ...:depressed:

  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    What was the nearside caliper replaced with ? Was it an aftermarket part ? Whilst the offside one is still OEM ?
  3. Zebster Guest

    I've owned my '54 Tourer since May 2008 and put over 80k miles on it. I've had to sort out binding rear brakes multiple times and - while both rear calipers have had to be replaced over the years - the problem is almost always due to the pads binding due to corrosion. Additionally, new pads seem to ALWAYS need the edges filing/grinding down a little to remove casting marks and paint so that they fit properly without jamming when first fitted! Nevertheless, despite me always either using copper grease or silicone grease, the edges of the pads inevitably corrode and the pads end up dragging... I now strip down the rear brakes annually during the service for a clean up and regrease. Even then I had to redo them for the last MOT, as I had a failure due to rear brake imbalance. I did a long-ish motorway run last night and, as is my habit, when I got home I felt the rear brakes... Fortunately they were barely warm.

    I'm guessing that the garage may have failed to ensure that the new rear pads were fitting freely?
    Kash likes this.
  4. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    I would second that, Done both my rear callipers now but the rear pads need to be quite free in their mountings and the casting on the pad tangs that locate the pads are always to tight and need filing down.

    I recently did this only last month after a 700 mile round trip.
    For some reason the rear brakes on these cars do suffer from more corrosion than the fronts. The rear disc dust shields on mine are held in place with rust and hope at the moment, no idea why they have rusted so badly but they have.

    For now they will stay like it as its more than a 30 min job to replace them.

  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    I have never had to file brand new Honda genuine pads they fit perfectly on the tourers I have three tourers and never encountered the same issue.
    SpeedyGee likes this.
  6. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    I wouldn't expect to have to with genuine parts. But I use Apec as I get big discounts. Good pads but as with any other aftermarket part, they are not quite to original spec.
    They do work well though once fettled into place.
  7. Zebster Guest

    I'd assume that genuine pads shouldn't need grinding to fit properly, but I'm guessing that most garages normally use aftermarket parts?

    The worst experience I had with aftermarket pads for my Accord was the presence of an additional pin that fouled the caliper piston and had to be ground off to allow the pad to fit!
  8. jimjams Guest

    That sounds like an after-market pad, some after-market pads are similar to the saloon pads, but sold as suitable for the Tourer

    However, having said that, even the correct Tourer pads from a dealer (e.g. Holdcroft) do need to be filed down at the ends (and bfore someone asks, the calipers on my Tourer are original)
  9. Stuart Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Stuart
    Hi All,

    :Smile: Thanks very much for the reassuring posts, I was afraid you were going to tell me there were other parts that might've failed. I'll bring the aftermarket pads possibilities to the attention of the garage guys when I speak to them.

    NSR was replaced with an Apec - LCA237. 'Fraid I don't know what the original OSR caliper was - I got the car in August 2014 with 125k on the clock but without any history apart from the Service Book. The replacement OSR caliper is a Brake Engineering CA1364R.

    This is A Good Idea. :Thumbup: If I keep my Tourer, or replace it with another one, I'll do the same.

    Before this, I only had one other Honda four-wheeler - a '97 CR-V for eight years and over 100k miles. However, I've had or looked after several Honda motorcycles in the last forty-odd years; every disc-braked one had at least one sliding or swinging caliper and every one has needed components remaking in better-quality, more-corrosion-resistant material to cut down on the far-too-frequent strip downs. Quite why, after all this time, Honda still can't get corrosion resistance right is A Mystery. :Frown:

    Point taken, my experience too with genuine Honda parts. However, snag is - when you're trying to fit genuine Honda parts - say brake pads - to pattern parts - say calipers - it might not be Honda's fault that the pads don't fit but it's still them that get "fettled". Yes, in an ideal world, I'd fit genuine Honda parts every time but, if I could afford to do that every time, would I be running an eleven-year-old car? :Smile:

    Once again, thanks for everyone's help.

    Zebster likes this.
  10. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    :whathesaid: Never had to shave Honda pads, only non genuine pads when other people have bought them to me to fit on their cars !
  11. jimjams Guest

    see my #8, original calipers, correct OEM pads from Holdcroft, ends need filing
  12. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    I've done plenty of brakes and never had to file Honda pads myself.
  13. jimjams Guest

    you can do mine then LOL
  14. syzsounds Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Had the same problem with both of my rear calipers on the tourer, I removed them both and sent them to :
    Brake Caliper Refurbishment Specialists UK

    2 year guarantee and turned around within a week.
    Handy that they are just up the road from where i live.
  15. Zebster Guest

    How long have they now been on the car?
  16. jimjams Guest

    interesting idea, how much did it cost ?
  17. syzsounds Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Been on the car about 6 months , Not a problem at all .., If the pistons are good then they will clean , new seals etc and paint them ... Cracking service .
    If memory serves it was about 120 quid.

    They do a crap load of honda calipers ..and porsche, vw, jag .. etc etc .. Recommended by a friend after his dads toureg calipers seized ,,, they are actually Porsche calipers without the sticker !
  18. Kash Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Kash Nelson
    I've had a few Hondas in my time and as they get on the rear calipers always need attention. Respect to zebster for maintaining his, as this is what'll keep them working.
    Zebster likes this.
  19. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Interesting to read this thread.... because I averaged 47mpg in Oct and only 35mpg in Nov... and at the MOT yesterday he mentioned that the drivers rear wheel was dragging a little. Brake test confirmed that the wheel need 27kg of force to rotate it whilst the other side needed just 18kg.

    I know that the side in question had a new hub fitted by the previous owner because when I fitted new discs and pads all round I noticed the nice brand new and still shiny part. I also know the car has a full Honda Fleet Service history and had it's MOT's done there... and as I am only the 2nd owner. Chances are it was also done by them with OEM parts.

    But I fitted Mintex discs and EBC pads within a week or so of buying the car in the summer... and didn't touch the handbrake as I didn't know that the tourer had a drum brake for that at the time.

    So until I strip it down and check it all out... it could be binding pads, sticky sliders or even then handbrake... and I'm unable to do that these days due to severe back problems.

    I shall keep an eye on the fuel consumption this month and if it continues to be lower then expected, I shall investigate further in the new year as money is pretty tight with xmas coming up.
  20. redefined_cycles Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Just my two pence on this. Forstly pads. I went through lots of pads in succession when i was using aftermarket ones (apparently the best ones from wherever i would buy them from: ao they claimed). In tge end i went with the originals from Holdcroft and was amazed at tge difference in performance as well as longevity, so i quickly replaced all 4 sodes tooriginals... regards the sticking. My rears would stick quite a bit. Then instripped down and rebuilt with new pistons and seals. Ever since i had no more problems with brakes again (the rebuikd was done around 10000 miles ago)...

    Obviouslt the car is RIP now... sorry to be leaving Honda (for the mo)