General Honda Accord i-vtec braking niggles

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by carboy2017, Thursday 14th Jun, 2018.

  1. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    This is my 1st post here since I joined just a few mins back :Smile:

    I drive a 2004 Accord i-VTEC and currently on 116k on the clock,I have been noticing that the braking is not efficient as how it should be and recently it nearly failed in an emergency stop on a gravel country lane

    When I applied the brakes it took time to stop and I could also hear a slight grating/vibrating noise and the pedal seems to go in a bit,at other times gradual braking seems ok

    To give a bit of history I had the brake fluid flushed and replaced in November and also have changed all 4 pads (front in Nov and rear in April),I asked the garage to check on discs and they said its fine

    any ideas as to what can the issue be? recently my friends 05 Golfs brakes failed and the fault was a servo hose as per RAC guy ,could it be something similar?

    any help/suggestions appreciated as my garage has asked me to come in next week on Thursday as they are booked till then
     
  2. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Without being certain, since you mention that it was on a gravel road, you didn't mention at what speed you where traveling whilst you had to do your emergency stop. My thinking here is that you where travelling fast enough for your anti lock brakes to activate, thus slowing you down at a slower pace, due to the loose surface.

    I have not found there to be any problems with gradual braking either.

    Another thing as well bud, you don't mention whether your car is a saloon or an estate ( Tourer) as they have different braking systems on the rear. Though both seem to suffer from sticking, mainly in the slide pins that the brakes operate on. If the pads where changed, but the pins where not checked, there could be a slight issue there.
     
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  3. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    Thank you for the reply
    actually I was travelling at around 35-40 mph on the gravel road when I had to make an emergency stop. My car is a saloon with manual transmission
    Also today when I had to brake on the same road (but not an emergency stop) at a much slower speed of around 30 mph I heard a some kind of grating noise from the wheels,do you reckon the discs are a problem here



     
  4. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Small stones stuck in there from the gravel?

    Is the noise from the front or back?
    Has your MPG dropped recently?
    Is the noise there all the time, or only when braking?

    You really need to get the wheels off and have a look.
     
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  5. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    thanks for the input but my MPG has not dropped and the noise is only when braking suddenly not when you do so gradually when slowing down

     
  6. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    When the pads were changed, is that all they did?
    When were the brakes last serviced?

    As I said earlier, you need to get the wheels off and look. We will then have a better idea of what the cause is.
     
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  7. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    the brake oil was flushed and gen service done in Nov 17,I asked them to check if the discs were ok and they said they are good
    apart from that yes only the pads were changed nothing else


     
  8. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Are you able to take the wheels off and check the system yourself?
    Do you know what to do?

    If you have never done anything like this before, it is best to get it checked over by someone that can, be that a friend or mechanic.
     
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  9. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    As @Nels has stated, you need to get the wheels off to have a look. I recently did a brake disc and pad replacement on my own car (not that hard) and I found that one of the pads had got stuck on the slider due to rust, and had actually gone wedge shaped as a result ( it was the inboard pad, that isn't seen) also further to this the inside of the disc brake surface was scored and rusty, but you couldn't tell from the outside, without taking the disc or caliper off.

    Car on axle stands for safety 20180609_125126_resized.
    From the outside everything looks normal on both sides of the car.

    20180609_125138_resized.

    The disc off the wheel hub and caliper off. the splash shield is rusty but present.
    20180609_133004_resized.

    The face of the old disc looks fun, a little rough around the edges
    20180609_133014_resized.

    The back side looks a lot worse, but not terrible.
    20180609_133024_resized.

    The passenger side pads are where there was a problem. the inboard pad is wedge shaped, due to getting stuck in the carrier at an odd angle. The other pad was in good condition.
    20180609_133052_resized.

    New Ferodo disc 20180609_134047_resized. 20180609_134112_resized.


    Blurry, but all installed back on the car, with Brembo pads.
    20180609_141225_resized.

    My mess of tools. You see you don't need a massive arsenal of tools to do the job, but it does help to have a 14mm socket and a breaker bar to get the carrier bolts out.
    20180609_141242_resized. 20180609_153714_resized. 20180609_153723_resized.
     
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  10. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    thanks all for the replies,i didn't want to attempt it myself this time around so booked an appt with my garage on Thursday and lets see how it goes
     
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  11. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    :Thumbup:
     
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  12. aznspidey Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom TN London
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  13. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Good Job at finding that guide, however saloon brakes are completely different to tourer ( estate rear brakes) and need a windback tool to wind them in, rather than push them in. They are notorious for seizing, though usually its the slide pins that go first.
     
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  14. aznspidey Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom TN London
    102
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    Reconditioning should be same procedure though, I've done my own on an 8th Generation saloon and should be same as 7th Generation.
    Pump the brake until the piston pops out and then clamp the bleed cable.
    Wipe away brake fluid from inside caliper and check if there's rust inside housing for piston - if there is, you'll be wanting to remove the whole caliper unit to clean as well as piston.
    After all cleaned and ready to put back together, use plenty of silicon grease on pins and on external face of piston (and their rubber boots).

    Process is still fresh in my mind so if you have any queries or issues working on the caliper, let me know - I've been meaning to write up a guide...
     
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  15. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Still as previously mentioned the Saloon rear brakes are different to the Tourer.
    The handbrake on the tourer has shoes that operate inside a drum, built into the discs, and regular braking is done by a regular caliper.
    The handbrake and rear brakes are combined on the saloon brakes, and infact uses the same caliper as on the 6th Generation Accord. The handbrake mechanism works on a ratcheting system, integrated with the piston, and I am sure that you cannot just pop this out like you would with a regular piston.
     
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  16. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    dropped off the Accord at the garage just now so that they can start off tomorrow morning
     
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  17. aznspidey Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom TN London
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    For the purpose of reconditioning the caliper piston, tourer looks pretty much the same process as the saloon. The guide I linked to was for tourer and my saloon was exact same process. It mentions in that guide to pump the brake and the piston will drop out. Pumping the brake fluid forces fluid in behind the piston and pushes it out, pretty much like unscrewing a bolt. Pushing it out completely will cause the piston to drop out of the screw hole.
     
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  18. carboy2017 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Carboy Surrey
    18
    5
    the garage say that the brakes are fine and they had given it a good test on the rollers and on the road they feel its the ABS kicking in that was vibrating when braking harshly on a gravel road............
    Guess I have to use and see
     
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  19. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I thought it would be, since you mentioned a gravel road, which is the prime example of a loose surface causing the car to think its skidding.
     
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