Honda Logo D series engine conversion guide

Discussion in 'Honda D-Series' started by mugen-b16sol, Sunday 12th Feb, 2017.

  1. mugen-b16sol Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Done this a few times now so thought I put a new guide up seeing as the old from Civiclife is dead.

    First off it's a relatively straight forward conversion but it's not a 100% drop in, this guide should cover the majority of VTEC and non VTEC D series engines.

    Things to remember the Logo is OBD2B, the engine loom and dash loom are one piece so you can't just change looms like you do in a Civic. So you will need to purchase an appropriate ECU adapter harness depending on what year engine you decide to swap in also the dizzy is small plug.

    Right Mechanical stuff first -

    With the new engine out it would be a good time to do stuff like the timing belt and water pump if you haven't done so already. You will need to virtually swap everything from the Logo engine to the Civic engine in terms of mounts etc.

    So rocker cover, timing belt cover all need to come off. I would change the passenger side engine mount over from the Logo engine to the Civic one first, then everything else like the PAS pump & bracket, the alternator & brackets from the Logo engine to the Civic engine, also the passenger front lower engine mount on the front of the engine plus if your Air Con works and you are keeping it then you'll need to put all that on as well, last but not least Logo crank pulley needs to go on too.

    Side note if you are intending on using an OBD2B ECU to run your OBD2B engine and not go down the OBD1 route you will need to change the lower crank pulley that's behind the main crank pulley the aux belts run off to the Logo one and mount the Logo CKF sensor if your engine doesn't have them already, if your engine doesn't have provision for this then you'll need to do the CKF bypass mod. If you are going straight OBD1 you can ignore this paragraph.

    If you are putting in a D15/6 as the blocks are a smidge taller the upper bolt holes for the brackets on the PAS and Alternator won't line up by 2-3mm so you'll need to elongate them till it fits or just make sure the bottom bolts are tight which if they are will be enough to hold everything on.

    Gearbox will bolt right one just use whatever clutch matches the engine you are using.

    Electrical stuff -

    All this is mostly plug and play you'll need to splice a new TPS plug on the Logo loom as the Logo uses a totally different type of TPS compared to the Civics before you take the plug off the TPS make a note of which side the release clip is on and what order the wires are in as when you splice the Civic TPS plug on the wiring order will be as per how it is plugged in.

    Dizzy will be plug and play if the engine is OBD2B if it's OBD2A then swap the dizzy for a later one, if the engine is OBD1 with 2 plugs then it's still relatively easy you'll need to take the plastic stopper from inside the big plug out that will then plug into the loom plug, 1 wire from the 2 wire plug you'll need to splice into the main loom just after the loom plug (refer to diagram below)

    If your engine is OBD2 then you will probably have a 3 wire IACV so this will be plug and play if not and it is a 2 wire item then you will need to do the 3>2 wire change, details in the diagram below.

    If the engine is OBD2 then the injectors will be plug and play if not you'll need to do the injector mod as per the diagram below.

    Other stuff -

    Other things to note - use the Logo hard fuel line that's on the rail mount that to the new rail use a new bit of hose from the FPR to the hard pipe, you may need to extend the other side too depending how you mount the pipe. Fuel in line will go right on just make sure you have the nut that came on the rail itself, you'll need to undo the fuel filter from the bulkhead and move that out of the way as with the position it's in it'll be in the way of the inlet when the engine is in.

    Move the throttle cable bracket back one bolt hole and then you'll need to bend the bracket slightly so the cable isn't so slack but you'll know what to do when you come to this part.

    That is about it for non VTEC engines but then again for VTEC engines you don't have to do much more all you now need to do is wire the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch direct to the ECU which is very easy as there is a gromet in the bulkhead above the ECU which is in the usual place in the passenger footwell. See diagrams below for sensor pinouts.

    OBD1 VTEC wiring pin out


    OBD2B 3>2 wire IACV fix and VTEC wiring


    IACV wiring change at the B plug (OBD2B)


    Dizzy info - You can see here it's literally 1 wire that you need to sort out on OBD1 dizzys


    Injector Mod


    It'll end up something like this probably more tidy and clean

    legend-ary, SpeedyGee and Ichiban like this.
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
  3. mugen-b16sol Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Hopefully most of that is coherent and made sense!
    Ichiban likes this.
  4. mugen-b16sol Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Going to add a few things here as some companies are making out it's harder than what it should be.

    There is no need to swap the oil pump from the Logo engine to the Civic engine at all just because the Logo runs a crank fluctuation sensor this isn't even used on the OBD1 engines so for example if you are dropping a Z6 in then you disregard this sensor full stop as all the timing stuff is done within the sensors in the dizzy.

    Also you can run the Z6 distributor no problem you literally take the plastic stop out from inside the big plug then that will plug into the Logo engine bay loom, with the small 2 wire plug all you do with that is snip one wire and splice it on a connector to the corresponding wire on the engine loom as per the diagrams above.

    Also with the injectors as the Logo is obd2b you can either source a set of obd2 240cc injectors then the plugs will be plug and play if you are dropping an obd1 engine in, but if you are wanting to use the obd1 injectors use the guide above and they will work fine.

    With this swap all the wiring you should be doing is to the TPS and the 3 to 2 wire IACV mod plus VTEC wires if you are running a VTEC engine, apologies if some of this is repeated but the swap isn't a hard one to do it's just time consuming having to basically strip down 2 engines and swap stuff over.
    legend-ary likes this.
  5. h22betterthank20 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland anon ano falkirk
    hey sorry for the bump

    I've just started my d16 swap no d16 yet though lol

    anyway started preparing for the swap removing most stuff from engine bay and labeling wires and pipes.

    im hopefully going d16z6 so i will need to do the 3->2 IACV fix but i also see the image of the b plug fix do i need do do both these?

    thanks in advance and this is my first post hopefully will be able to get more advice here soon
  6. mugen-b16sol Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Yeah you need to do both I'm not the best at wiring etc but this wasn't too bad to do.
  7. h22betterthank20 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland anon ano falkirk
    hey mate stuck on removing the last ECU plug it has anti tamper sheild with a brass pin how to get this off?
    thanks buddy
  8. GeraldS1 New Member Getting Started

    Cool thread

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  9. HarryWep2 New Member Getting Started

    What do we think of putting a d16v1 in a logo? the engines are so much cheaper but i don't know how the wiring would be with a coil on plug setup as apposed to dizzy, anyone have any thoughts?
  10. Hondalad Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Steve Derbyshire
    I think it would depend one which ECU you were going to use. If you use the ECU for the engine being swapped in it shouldn't be a problem.