Guides How to fit an aftermarket stereo into the 6th Generation

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by Roylewaa, Wednesday 3rd Apr, 2013.

  1. Roylewaa Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Had a quick look for a guide on doing this and could'nt find one so here goes, my 6th Generation is a Exec with climate control, however I have fitted a stereo in a standard Accord with the standard heater panel so I will advise on this also :Smile:

    Firstly this is what you are met with

    It looks harder than it actually is, however its a fairly easy job
    Firstly bring the steering wheel down as this gives better access to the screws, then remove the 3 screws at the top of the binnacle surround

    Then remove the centre headlight adjustment switch as they're is a screw behind here that needs removing also, this can be a pain as it's fairly easy to scratch the surounding area, or break the front off the switch, I find using an old stanley knife blade wrapped in tissue paper worked a treat

    Then remove the button for the odometer reset, this simply pulls off

    Now remove the screw behind the headlight adjustment switch, I found it best to use a magnetec screwdriver as it stops the screw dissapearing in the dash once removed

    Now is the most difficult part (especially if the surround has never been removed before) as it is held on with those retaining metal clips, just start at the top working your way around with light tugs, It will start to unclip

    It is worth noting that it is especially tight below where the stereo is, I had to really tug on this part, whilst using a old credit card cut in half to help with leverage
    Be caraful though as pull too hard and this can happen:Blushing:
    It completely separated after the pic was taken

    Once the surround is loose, disconnect the hazard, Cruise control (if you have it) and fog light switches, there is a button on the plug, simply nip and pull, You can leave those switches in the surround once removed

    This is what you will be met with, the factory fitted stereo is held in with 4 screws, and is attached to the heater panel in 1 cage

    Remove the screws

    Once the screws are removed gently prise the whole unit forward, it might be sticky but it will come away with a crack noise :lol:
    Now remove the 2 connections at the rear of the climate control panel

    Unplug the aerial, blue connector, amp and cd changer (depending on model) from the back of the head unit
    The whole unit will be able to removed now

    The head unit is held in with 4 screw, 2 at either side, remove these and the headunit will come away

    Now if you have the standard heater control panel, This will not allow you to pull the unit out of the dash very far, so it is simply a case of pulling it out as far as it will go and remove the screws as you do, be careful though it is easy to distrupt the mechanical connections behind the panel, which I did resulting in the vent direction control pulling out of its mount disabling the control, so make sure it all works before you put it all back together

    For referance if you have the Bose system or a cd changer
    This is the 14 pin cd changer lead (what Xcarlink uses)

    This is the sub and amp connection

    Right, I found it easier (and more secure) to mount the aftermarket stereo to the factory fitted cage (just like the standard headunit) and did away with the aftermarket stereo cage (as I found the stereo a very tight fit after its cage was used)
    Most aftermarket stereos already have the mounting screw holes that are the screw size you have so bonus
    Like this

    Plug in your iso convertor lead, these can be picked up from ebay for a few quid, even if it says they are not suitable for amped systems, they do still work Here's a link for the one I bought
    And connected to the factory lead, with the other end into your aftermarket stereo harness

    Plug in the aerial, they're is not much give on this so you will have to offer the stereo into the hole to fit it, if your lucky the aerial plug will be on the left side of your headunit as this makes it easier, If not extension leads are available on ebay, note on the Accord 6th Generation it is a male aerial plug
    Plug back in your climate control plugs
    and refit the stereo and screw the screws back in

    At this stage it is worth making sure your head unit works and that it retains its memory when keys are removed from the ignition, if the stereo does lose its memory simply swap the red and yellow connections on the headunits iso loom, they are swappable connections on most aftermarket stereos these days so its no drama to do
    Now re offer the binnicle surround back, and plug back in the hazard, cruise and fog plugs

    Now just push the surround home, making sure it connects with all the clip locations, it will make that positive clip back noise
    It may be worth making sure the headlight leveling switch plug hasint dissapeared behind the dash before you fully refit the surround as it can be a pain to fish back out the hole :lol:
    Once the surround is back in place, refit the 3 screws and the 4th behind the leveller switch, it is easier to fit the screw into the screwdriver and guide it into the screw hole, makes screwing it in easier

    Fit your trim on the stereo (if you have one)
    And sit back and admire you handywork, kettle on, cup of tea:Smile:

    Note if you have the Bose amped system, It will not sound as good as it did before, as the amp and sub will not work with the aftermarket headunit however if your not fussy it is perfectly fine
    Hopefully someone can add to this guide on how to get your sub and amp running with the aftermarket headunit, hint hint:Smile:

    If anyone feels like I have missed anything please feel free to comment :Smile:
    Last edited: Wednesday 3rd Apr, 2013
    philoldsmobile and SpeedyGee like this.
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Sweet! good stuff buddy shame about the damage to the trim.
  3. Roylewaa Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Yeah I know, I've got a replacement coming so all good

    Thought it would be best to show what can happen if its never been removed before it can put up a fight
    Ichiban likes this.
  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Great write up Roylewaa !
  5. philoldsmobile Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Great write up, and useful to those going the Xcarlink route as well as you can clearly see the white multi changer socket on the stereo you are aiming for. Nice job :Thumbup:
  6. Bon Accord New Member Getting Started

    Thanks for your excellent step by step guide Roylewaa. I managed to install a new stereo this afternoon without any mishaps, which is rare for me!!
    Last edited: Sunday 28th Apr, 2013
  7. n3utr1n0 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    i have a sony stereo on a bose system....

    is there no way to hook up the amp and sub? really dissapointed in this... it makes me switch back to the old crappy stereo just to make use of the amp and sub...
  8. rinesh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆


    It is possible to use the amp in the boot and the sub. Friend of mine sorted this out for me on my previous car (Accord 2.3ES) with bose sound. There is a sound controller underneath the passenger seat. Normally it is used to optimize the sound for the factory bose radio and send the sound signal to the rear amp for the sub. But when u use an aftermarket radio, the sound controller is not being used anymore, because the aftermarket radio is going to ‘feed’ the door speakers.
    I’m not very technical but I know that he used a RCA cable from my aftermarket radio’s SUB OUT to the sound controller. At the other end he stripped the wire so one has two wires (+ / -). After that he pulled out the connector which goes in the sound controller. I still got the picture he used so hopefully you guys can use it…
    Then he connected the +/- to the existing inputs 3 (light green ) and 10(green white). The sound controller itself is inactive because the connector is not connected to the radio. So you simply use the existing wiring to ‘feed’ to the amplifier.
    Note: He said not to use a very thick RCA kabel and the aftermarket radio should have a SUB OUT of at least 2 Volts.

    Stereo Sound System.

    On the picture u can see that one needs inputs 3 and 10 to send the signal to the amp.
    Hopefully this information can help u guys further, it definitely worked for me and my sub worked fine.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Friday 22nd Nov, 2013
    cmahey and Simes like this.
  9. eviltony Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    i replaced mine b4 i saw this on my accord with my bose sub still works jus got the right iso cable as the guy halfords said i had the wrong 1 and sounds great as when i had my stanard cd player in it
    so im happy as iu though#t i was gonna have to bypass the sub but jus the right iso cable helped
  10. exec Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom London
    ^ do you which iso adaptor was used? possibly any links to it?
  11. eviltony Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    erm ill try remember as halfords said 1 i got was wrong as there was 2 options ill have a look and edit post

    edit i believe was the pc2-90-4 is the 1 in my car i beleive bought it as got wroing 1 off ebay halfords let me try it make sure was right 1 best go there as they had it on there pc as 1 i got from ebay had less cables
    Last edited: Tuesday 10th Dec, 2013
  12. exec Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom London
    Thanks man, thats interesting, thought al pc2-xx-92 leads were for standard speakers only and not ones with amp and sub, does your sub definitely work then?
  13. eviltony Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    as far as im aware sounds like it with the bass and stuff im not technicall but sounds alot better then with other cable i had
  14. AlHarris Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Some tips I find useful when removing/refitting plastic panels:
    When pulling off plastics such as the console surround, give it a good heat with a hair dryer before pulling it off - it's far less likely to break.
    If you're having problems with distorted plastic clips, try putting them in a cup of boiling water to heat up - most of the time they'll go back to their original shapes.
    DeviateDefiant and SpeedyGee like this.
  15. demian Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    User named Airmax from claimed to have found an even more effective way to make the Bose system work with an aftermarket HU. I'll give you an executive summary:

    1. Leave the equalizer unit and its connectors under the front seat untouched
    2. Take out the black Bose connector from the dash
    3. In order to get + power to the equalizer box, connect the yellow/blue wire to the red wire of the usual stereo connector / adapter cable (apparently the ACC one, not the continuous power).
    4. Connect the Yellow/Red cable of the Bose connector to ground, or the black wire of the stereo connector.
    (Now the Bose equalizer gets power and ground)
    5. Get a stereo RCA cable, cut off the connectors from the other end and strip the insulation from both leads.
    6. Fold the outer jackets backwards and wrap them with electrical tape, as they're no longer needed!
    7. Now you have only the two core leads of the two RCA cables visible.
    8. Connect said core leads to the red and brown leads of the black Bose connector. Polarity doesn't matter.
    9. The rest of the leads in the black Bose connector remain unconnected.
    10. Connect the other ends of the RCA cable to the SUB-OUT of your headunit (assuming the sub-out is in stereo).

    The logic here is firstly to provide power to the equalizer, which many earlier instructions have ignored. In addition, the outer jacket of the RCA cable is not minus (-) but rather just a shielding it doesn't work well with the symmetrical signal that the Bose system uses. This approach rectifies that issue and INCREASES BASS POWER. :Smile:
    cmahey likes this.