Engine & Gearbox i-CTDi Fuel injectors required coding

Discussion in 'Honda N-Series' started by Horsefeathers, Friday 25th Mar, 2016.

  1. Horsefeathers Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Horse Birmingham
    Does any one know of a good diesel specialist in Birmingham 32 area to change and code a injector on a Honda Accord 2.2
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    I found a few matches on Google but I don't recall anyone pointing out we've any one particular place in Birmingham previously.
  3. Zebster Guest

    Sorry, no.

    Getting an injector out that hasn't had a leaking seal isn't a tough job and needs no special tools. If you're that way inclined then it isn't a bad DIY, otherwise any diesel specialist should be able to do it. Coding the ECU (with a Honda Diagnostic System, or equivalent) doesn't have to be done immediately, as the ECU can compensate by balancing the other injectors against a wrongly coded one... but it will need to be done without too much delay to ensure the engine runs smooth and efficiently.
    Nels and SpeedyGee like this.
  4. Horsefeathers Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Horse Birmingham
    Thanks for replying
  5. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    I had to change one once. It was quite a straight forward procedure but I read a number of cases where folk have had real problems.
    My local trusted mechanic coded the ECU for me as I don't have that piece of kit.
  6. Horsefeathers Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Horse Birmingham
    Is installing the new injector straight forward or is there anything I should watch out for.
  7. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    IIRC, It was just reverse of removal.
    Just ensure that it is clean and no debris there before putting the injector back in. Oh, and don't forget the seal.

    It's been quite a while since I did mine, so would welcome any input from other members.
  8. Zebster Guest

    After having all of my injectors out, I was actually quite anxious to make sure that the new copper seals (gaskets) didn't fail after a short while (like has been reported), so decided to give the seats at the bottom of the recess a good cleaning.

    I adapted a small (1/4" drive) socket set to clean up the injector seats... I stuffed a small wad of kitchen roll into a 10mm socket on the end of a 120mm extension shaft and fitted a hand drive (so like a screwdriver), dipped the wad into some petrol, then twisted it down into the recess to clean up the mess and allow me to shine a torch down and inspect the seat area. Didn't look too bad, but there was some persistent grime, so swapped the kitchen roll wad for some medium grade steel wool taped to another socket and smeared with grease (so the liberated dirt and bits of wire wool would end up in the grease, not in the cylinder). Twisted this down onto the seat and worked it back and forth for a while, then put the petrol-soaked socket back on and cleaned up the grease and fresh debris. This technique worked well and left the seats looking in a good clean and shiny condition. if you can't clean up the seat to a good standard, then they'll need to be recut (Laser make a DIY tool for this, but I can't vouch for it),

    I then fitted new copper gaskets (from Holdcroft Honda, expensive but I wouldn't want cheap eBay ones as the thickness is critical) and put the injectors back in, having cleaned up the gasket seating surfaces. Took me about 45 mins per injector, including cleaning and refitting all the high-pressure pipework. The only problem I had was tightening #1 injector clamp bolt, as oil had filled the threaded hole and the hydraulic pressure resulted in me wrongly thinking I'd correctly tightened the clamp when I hadn't (the injector was still very slightly loose even after torquing up and turning the clamp bolt a further 90 degrees). I had to remove the injector and clamp to clear the hole with cotton buds... I really should have checked this first. You need a fairly large male Torx bit for the clamp bolt (T30, from memory).

    All has been OK since I did this 18 months/10k miles ago.

    If you are planning to DIY this, then I can look up the torque settings for you.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 27th Mar, 2016
    Nels likes this.
  9. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Thanks @Zebster :Thumbup:
    I only had to change one that developed a fault and the thread and seat were pretty clean/clear to start with.
    I still cleaned the seat though, just to be sure.
  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    please can you take care of where you ask these question i have changed the title of this thread and moved it into its correct section, @Staff please can step up the screen of thread. ta
  11. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Will do. :Hey:
  12. Horsefeathers Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Horse Birmingham
    Thanks for all your replies, I have replaced the injector that was playing up and car is starting up great no problems but I have been told that I need to get it recoded as soon as.I have inquired at Honda garage and was quoted £80 but cannot do it for week or so.
    I also contacted diesel spec to see if they could do it sooner it they said because the replacement was a used one it would not need to be recoded as because of ware and tear the code dose not take this into account so it would make no difference getting it recoded. Any thoughts on this?
  13. Zebster Guest

    I can see what theyre getting at but, for optimum performance, it should be recoded. But this doesn't have to be done by a Honda dealer. A Bosch service agent would be another option, or any garage with a suitable interactive diagnostic system.