Engine & Gearbox i-CTDi (IMRC) Frequency Solenoid Failure

Discussion in 'Honda N-Series' started by Ichiban, Friday 18th Nov, 2011.

  1. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    So far it's not returned since fitting the new one... It's been almost 3 weeks so far... granted it's only been around 250 miles driven in that time, but mostly small journeys of 25m down to 5m or less each time... lots of errands where you do a mile or two, stop,.. do another couple of miles, stop and so forth.

    So it does look like it was the issue with me.
     
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  2. Bones126 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    England Dave Birmingham
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    765
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    Nice one, I think it's safe to say you can relax now lol.
     
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  3. gasmeister Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Keith Nuneaton
    12
    8
    Thank you very much. I believe I have the same problem with my 2.2 diesel ex CR-V 2007. Power keeps dying and car won't rev although it starts and ticks over ok when affected. Fault codes p2004, p2006 and p2017 evident. Garage recommended replacement of Frequency Solenoid.
     
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  4. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    P2004 is for the Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1, whilst the P2006 seems to be for the exact same thing, but "Stuck Closed"

    Both of these could indicate the FSV needing replacement, although I've only ever heard of a P2004 being linked to it myself.

    As for the P2017... my research seems to point to a failed O2 sensor on the exhaust system, now I don't know exactly where the O2 sensor on the CR-V is located, but they are easy to replace (if you can access them). I've replaced many of them when I owned MX6's and whilst the front one was easy, the rear was a pig as it was a V6 engine. I even bought an O2 sensor socket, which is like a regular socket with a slot in the side for the wire to hang out of. Worth having one of those in your toolbox in my opinion.

    Because these things failed so often on those cars, we had a regular supply chain that were universal, and we simply rewired the old electrical connector onto new sensors... this meant snipping of the old wiring from the knackered sensor and soldering it to the new one... Each time you did this it made the lead a little shorter.. but it meant getting sensors for £30 instead of £130, and there's enough wire to do this half a dozen times before you need to rewire the connector block itself.
     
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  5. gasmeister Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Keith Nuneaton
    12
    8
    Hi Heckler, Thank you for the info. It's certainly food for thought. I'll see how things go when I've replaced the FSV.
    Just a thought but maybe the 02 sensor reacts to the rich fuel level (lack of air for the mix as a result of the faulty FSV) and triggers the fault code?
     
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  6. wifehascrv New Member Getting Started

    Hi. First, apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but it is relevant to the question I'm going to ask. ***Long post alert!***
    As per my username, my wife has a 2008 2.2 CR-V.
    It refused to start after a short stop for fuel. It had been driven for about 20 miles prior to this.
    It was left at the fuel station until I could get to it on my way home from work. I had my code reader in the boot, but decided to try to start it first.
    It fired up straight away, so I left my car there and headed for home (about 7 miles) in the CR-V. Regrettably, I only managed half that distance before it cut out again. It was left to cool for a few hours, and was driven the rest of the journey home. P2004 was recorded, so I took the internet's advice and bought a FSV.
    Prior to installation of the FSV, I had noticed that, on a cold startup, the diaphragm on the valve assembly was pulsing, and pushing/pulling the lever. My initial thought was that the movement should be slow and steady. Correct? It still pulsed after the new FSV.
    Anyway, as my wife has only had the car for a couple of months, I decided to replace the fuel filter, and run some Wynns EGR cleaner through the air intake, too. I also sprayed contact cleaner into all the visible plugs.
    I drove the car about 20 miles to check if it was OK. It felt fine. This was on Friday.
    Yesterday, after a journey of 30 , or so, miles, it cut out again. When it cuts out, on a key turn it will start momentarily, but will not idle. The engine management light was not on, and a code was not stored!
    Clearly, it's weird that a code was not present (I was using a Foxwell NT510 scanner with the appropriate downloaded Honda software), but I get the impression that the diaphragm assembly, or the sensor opposite it, might not be operating properly. For all I know , the sensor at the throttle pedal might be playing up, too.
    It's about £100 for the diaphragm assembly+sensor (opposite).
    What are your thoughts? Should I get someone with far better diagnostics to read for codes? I'm used to carrying out my own repairs, but my experience with Hondas is limited to when I had a 400-4 in the late seventies. :Niceone:
    If you've got this far, thanks for reading. Any advice will be gratefully received.
     
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