Introductions john from longfield

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by jonhall, Saturday 10th Mar, 2012.

  1. jonhall New Member Getting Started

    Hi everyone i'm new to the AOC and I have a brake problem with my 05 tourer 2.0ltr petrol.Over the last week or so my rear brake hubs have been getting very hot where the fronts stay cool.I'm guessing there is a brake bias/apportioning valve fitted to the hydraulic system.has anyone come across this problem and could they tell me whre the unit is fitted.
  2. Hi John and welcome to AOC.

    I'm just wondering if this might be the VSA / Vehicle Stability Assist unit on your car. It is a known fault on the diesel. It is located in the engine bay and has several brake lines leading into it.
  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Hi John,

    Welcome to AOC for starters I won't even worry about the brake proportionate valve or any other core components of the VSA modulator is equipped on your car. There is no need to go into the braking system so deep it’s a Honda there is no mickey mouse engineering on this car.

    My experience on accord is the rear calipers do need a strip and clean EVERY year, the winters take a toll on them. If this is not done yearly they then begin to chew stuff. I have two tourer both MOT'd recently and got Holdcroft Honda to strip the rears and lubricate the sliders. Both cars had the first symptoms of catching whilst the sliders were perfect, and again both showed the symptoms on the near side rear disc. I could have done it myself but I am lazy when it comes to my cars.

    It’s the rust and grime build up between the pads and the backing plate which makes the pads bind.

    Secondly if an inexperienced DIYer or careless technician were to stretch or inflicts damage to the rear brake hoses it make matters worse. This normally happens when the caliper is off for a brake pad change or left dangling stretching the pipe.

    This causes the brake pipe swell and restricting the flow of hydraulic pressure, on seeing this people go into hardware swap mode without looking at the scenarios and root cause.I have seen two brand new calipers, new brake pads new discs,new parking brake shoes the lot but the brake hoses not checked.!!

    So my advise will be not to go into hardware swap mode or change any of valve settings get the basics checked first.

    Shame you are so far away I would have gladly looked at it.
  4. Very true.
  5. jonhall New Member Getting Started

    Thanks for the info,the caliper was not really seized but cleaning and renewing the grease helped and for a while it seemed to be the answer, but after a 15 mile run the rears were very hot.The caliper piston was difficult to move so tomorrow I intend to look into this.The question is. do honda produce an overhaul kit or is it neccesary to purchase a new unit.
  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    well have you done a runout check to see if the disc is true, if it isn't within spec and warped it will create the heat. Honda dealers have the kit to check this and if within tolerance can skim it whilst on the car.

    I still will say don't go in heavy with part swaps.
  7. A lot of people who have experienced this problem bought a reconditioned caliper on an exchange basis because a new one from Honda is big money.

    That assumes it is a caliper problem could also be a sticking pad or a degraded brake pipe for example.
  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Yes they do you can source it form your local dealer or Holdcroft Honda our preferred partner.

    2005 Tourer brake cutaway AOCUK.

    you will require one of each caliper.

    Item one 01473-SP0-000 Caliper Seal Set guide price £29.95

    Item eleven 43215-S7A-003 Pistons Price £38.00
  9. RobB Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Hello John and welcome to AOC.
    As said above don't just throw parts at it. Sticky rear brakes are quite common problem on the tourer.
    One question though is it hot both sides or just one? Just curious as it would seem strange to me for both sides to fail at the same time. Just wondering if your handbrake is releasing properly.
  10. jonhall New Member Getting Started

    thanks again for your ideas,O/S/R caliper was seizing solid and locking up brakes removal and cleaning did'nt help,there were some signs of scufffing in the cylinder but the piston was very difficult to move,maybe it was distorted with the heat generated.handbrake is free,i will remove N/S/R today and check that caliper but it is strange that both should give trouble at the same time.maybe I didn't notice the N/S getting hot before.