Suspension, Steering and Brakes Knocking noise from the wheel area

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Ichiban, Tuesday 15th Nov, 2011.

  1. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    This is a common annoyance with a lot of owners after they have has some work done on the front suspension. After replacing the compliance bushes, the drop links or major work like a clutch change this annoying condition sets in. This is applicable to all gen of accord and not necessarily to the 7th Generation.

    The symptoms are more apparent when you are accelerating the car or at stand still. To ascertain the source of the noise get a helper to hear the car when setting off from a standing stop. If there is a noise form the OSF or NSF side start to dismantle and remove the driveshaft.



    th_Axeloff.

    on removal inspect the driveshaft and clean the areas shown, of any dust and other contaminants\rust from the contact surfaces of the hub bearing and the wheel side driveshaft joint. Check for any rough area with your finger.

    th_cleantheaffectedarea.

    th_hubclean.

    Using 180 wet and dry sanding paper, sand and clean the contact surface area's to smooth finish and ensuring the surface is clean. Then get apply a thing coat of molybdenum grease on both surfaces. Your Honda dealers have small pouches for sale. Ensure you don't over apply the grease as it make be splattered over the ASB encoder or the sensor causing more damage.

    th_cleanedaxel.

    Reassemble everything and confirm that the noise has disappeared, job done.
     
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  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Diesel owners take note this is known to happen and its a simple fix.
     
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  3. wahabishtiaq Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Wahab Ish hemel hempstead
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    can this job be done with simplest of tools i.e. no special crow bar or etc required?

    Please advise as i have same knocking issue to deal with...
     
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  4. Beefy Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
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    Quite often the driveshaft joint can sieze into the hub. A copper hammer can be used to nit the joint out in situ but worst case is needing a new joint and possibly bearing and sensor if the joint needs pushing out in a press. You need a 36mm hub socket. Splitting the lower ball joint can be a problem for the diy mechanic also. So not as simple as it looks! Most accord 7 gens are over 10 years old now and starting to become pigs doing certain jobs.
     
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  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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  6. K24 CL9 GUY Premium Member Club Supporter

    United Kingdom Guy Gloucester
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    Hope to give the year old Insaneshafts a good check over tomorrow while fitting extended studs and new geniune hubs and bearings on the front so good timing thanks :Smile:
     
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  7. Jon R Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Harvey likes this.
  8. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Hi Jon, unfortunately the forum is experiencing some issues with stored photos at this time. It is in hand and being dealt with.

    The issue you are having, does the noise happen when accelerating from a stop or does it happen when driving? Also have you had any work such as replacement suspension parts or a replacement clutch within the last 12 months?


    Also welcome to the club.

    it might be an idea to add your car to the club garage, which adds it your posts in the form of a signature, that way other members can help out with questions.
     
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  9. Jon R Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi Harvey,
    Thanks for replying so soon and your welcome to the club. I'll post a picture of my 2008 Accord CN1 2.2cdti estate once she's had a good wash as it's sugar beet season here at the moment and the roads are filthy.
    The clunk happens when pulling off from being stopped or a from a very slow rolling start e.g. roundabouts. I've replaced the upper and lower wishbones, dampers and anti-rollbar bushes and worn right hand drive shaft earlier in the year as the bushes had started to fail after 200000km, 120000mile of continental roads. I needed a friends pit, alot of shock oil and long knuckle bars to get everything undone. Otherwise the car is sound apart from rust starting on the inside edge of the rear wheel arches - normal given that I spent 5 hard winters in Northern German. Replaced the cracked manifold last year and also fixed various common rail issues including a failed over pressure valve, failed commonrail sensor, gunked up EGR and MAF sensor....... I'm equiped to take on most jobs so taking the left hand side drive shaft out isn't an issue. The only other (expensive!) thing it may be is the steering rack that knocks slightly when the engine's stopped with no oil pressure - no noise with the engine running and she runs true out on the road.
     
  10. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    That' excellent that your taking care of your car and that it's been going well for you. The reason I asked about any suspension and clutch work recently was I had a similar problem myself, entitled in the thread "creaking clunk" on here. My issued turned out to be that 3 of the engine subframe bolts where loose and the rear wishbone bolt was not tight at All! It was practically falling out. This was creating a clunk, in a manner you describe, from a stop and from a low speed rolling start.
     
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  11. Jon R Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Many thanks for the info. - this is possibly the issue. When I changed the anti-rollbar bushes I had to loosen the engine subframe to get at the rubber bushes mounting bolts. They were all tighten up using a torque wrench but may have worked loose. I'll check the bolts again at the weekend before the drive train takes off up the road on it's own !!!
     
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  12. Jon R Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi Harvey,
    I Checked the subframe bolts at the weekend. All still tight and in place! Looks like I need to consider the steering rack although the LHS drive shaft has some play. It would probably pay to change this one to match the RHS that I've changed before spending a fortune on a service exchange rack as this may be causing the clunking from stopped.
    Jon
     
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  13. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    It' good that it' all still tight, dis you also check the wishbone bolts as well (this was also a possible cause for my noise and one of mine was really loose, practically falling out)
    Surely if a steering rack was damaged, it would clunk when turning, when left and right forces are applied to it.
     
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  14. Jon R Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Your right about the rack - it appears to be solid even when tested with a pry bar - that's why I would prefer to change the drive shaft.
     
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