Daily Driver LoCo - Potential Roobix replacement

7th Generation (2003-2008) vehicle added by SpeedyGee, Saturday 8th Oct, 2016

  1. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Last edited: Saturday 8th Oct, 2016
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  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Pics of engine bay :-

    IMG_2083. IMG_2094. IMG_2097.
    IMG_2089. IMG_2084. IMG_2085. IMG_2086. IMG_2087. IMG_2088. IMG_2090. IMG_2091. IMG_2092. IMG_2093.
    IMG_2095. IMG_2096.

    Plenty of cleaning to be done here as well but first priority is the bodywork.
     
    Last edited: Saturday 8th Oct, 2016
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  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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  4. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard T Milton Keynes
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    Engine bay needs a good clean next mate. Let me know if you need a hand sorting that bonnet out too.
     
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  5. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Sure does, might have a go after work during the week this week, if not it will have to wait for sometime.

    That's a long way to come for one little chip :Smile:

    These Halfords kits any good Halfords Honda Nighthawk Black Scra... ?
     
    Last edited: Sunday 9th Oct, 2016
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  6. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard T Milton Keynes
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    Personally, it would depend on your plans for her. If you are going to keep her, that chip would need to get professionally filled if you wanted it perfect as the paint would need blending. If you just want to tidy it up for a bit and sell her on, then I would rub the rust back till I hit clean metal. This would mean making the area bigger than it currently is before rust treating the metal, and then filling it with paint in layers. Once the paint is slightly proud, I would rub it back slightly with 1500 wet and dry and buff it back up. It would be noticiable but not as bad as it is now.

    If you are keeping it, I would either respray the entire bonnet if it has other damage, or use those chipaway guys.
     
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  7. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Well the front bumper needs respraying for sure so I might extend that to include some or all of the bonnet.
     
    Last edited: Sunday 9th Oct, 2016
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  8. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Right, I've got some updating to do.

    First I treated LoCo to a new (to her) set of alloy wheels, some Rota Torques.
    Followed this up with some Tein Lowering Springs.

    This is new alloys but stock springs :-
    IMG_20161112_132842. IMG_20161112_132833.
    Comparison :-
    LoCo_before_after.

    That nice big arch gap was bugging me, so I got some lowering springs :-
    20161211_151109. 20161211_151127. 20161211_160014.

    Gap closed, makes such a big difference to the overall look of the car.

    20161211_155950.
     
    Last edited: Friday 3rd Feb, 2017
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  9. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    For the eagle eyed, you may have noticed in the before and after pic above that the bumper was also re-resprayed ...

    Bumper2. Bumper1. Bumper4. Bumper3.
    Bumper8.
    Bumper6. Bumper5.
    Fresh set of fog lights :-
    Bumper12.
    Bumper assembled and ready to put, looked fantastic. A top job done by my nephew in respraying the bumper, nice deep black, even coat, no runs, well done kid !!
    Bumper13.
     
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  10. DrSam Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Sam Birmingham
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    Looks good! Springs made so much difference.
    Might look to lower mine.
    Loco looks mint now. Looking forward to see what's next.
     
    Last edited: Saturday 4th Feb, 2017
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  11. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Thanks @DrSam, makes a really big difference to the overall look of the car.
     
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  12. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
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    @SpeedyGee looking great mate and nice bumper respray....
     
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  13. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Yesterday I updated you all on the alloy wheel swap, suspension work and bumper respray.

    Today let me update you on the clutch change I did last weekend. Basically, the clutch never felt right ever since I had the car and in recent weeks I had started to experience significant slippage in gears (any gear, when loading the revs on).

    So I decided to go ahead and treat LoCo to a new clutch and flywheel, I already had a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and Stage 2 Kevlar Sprung Action Clutch both of these were actually purchased for Roobix but LoCo had a more pressing need for them so it's nabbed em :Smile:

    Fidanza lightweight flywheel (3.6Kg) :-
    20170128_151603.

    Action Clutch Stage 2 Kevlar Sprung Clutch :-
    clutch3. Clutch6.

    I only took a few pics as I was too busy.

    Now usually the process for changing the clutch on a 7th Generation Accord is to drop the entire subframe, fully remove the gearbox to get to the clutch and flywheel to change them. However, I was fully set on trying to avoid doing this as it makes the job so much longer. I had my mind set on finding a way to avoid this.

    So I removed the battery, battery tray, removed the airbox, disconnected all the wires, removed the front half of the intake manifold (to gain access to the bolt on the starter motor), removed all the bolts to free the gearbox from the engine and rear mount and pried the gearbox apart, whilst supporting it from underneath.
    20170128_143251.

    This gave me chance to assess the situation, with the gearbox decoupled from engine, and pushed back as far as possible, there was about a 5"-6" gap. This was simply not enough gap to allow the clutch to be swapped over, looking at what needed to be done to gain another 6", it was apparent that the shift fork control mechanism was in the way. So I decided to pull it out and tape over the hole to keep any debri from falling into the box.
    20170128_145400.

    This now meant I had enough gap to work on the clutch and even enough space to get an impact gun in there to aid removing the bolts on the flywheel
    20170128_151354. 20170128_151350.

    Fidanza flywheel fitted :-
    Clutch5.

    Action Clutch fitted :-
    Clutch4.

    I torqued the flywheel and clutch on from underneath, whilst getting someone else to rotate the engine so I can get to the next bolt.
    With the clutch installed, the gearbox was mated with engine once again, this was the testing point as to whether or not doing the clutch with gearbox still in engine bay was actually viable. Reason being you can only centre the clutch by feel and not by sight. By this I mean inserting the clutch centring tool and then feeling the gap all the way round the tool and the clutch plate springs and feeling to make sure it was centred all the way round, you usually do this by eyeballing the gap. If the clutch is not centred, the box will simple not slide on.

    Did it work ? Well of course it did ! :Smile: The gearbox glided back into place with no issues at all. I've had a much tougher time of doing this part when both engine and gearbox have been out of the car, by comparison this was a total doddle ! It was a massive relief to see the gearbox homing in on it's guide pins and the gap between the gearbox and engine just diminish to zero !

    With the gearbox mated, things were bolted back on. Just under 8 hours after started, the clutch job was complete :jumpup:

    How pleased was I for not having had to drop the subframe ?.... over flippin the moon LOL

    I joked on Facebook ... I hear-by name this the "SpeedyGee method of clutch change on a CL9 !" :Laughing::Laughing::Laughing:
     
    Last edited: Saturday 4th Feb, 2017
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  14. andy83 Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom andy shropshire
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    nice way to do it mate sounds like LoCo is getting treated great by a great guy...
     
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  15. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    She sure is been treated well and there's plenty more to come @andy83, watch this space :Smile: