Suspension, Steering and Brakes Rear discs

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by AccordMavman, Friday 30th Mar, 2018.

  1. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    20160611_110859.
    mind you can't be any worse that the experience i had with the brakes on my CH7......
    Siezed caliper, slide pins and discs that where falling appart
     
    Last edited: Tuesday 10th Apr, 2018
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  2. AccordMavman Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom James Cheshire
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    Completely agree with you - this was the Achilles heel on my 6th Generation, I had to completely strip back the rear calipers at least once every 2 years, as they were always prone to seizing badly. It was only this, and (bizarrely) the sender unit for the temperature gauge which failed at least 4 times, which were recurring issues during my 12 years of ownership.

    That’s not too shoddy I suppose, especially compared to some other makes of car that clog up our tiny road network...:Smile:
     
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  3. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Problem is James, Honda used the same Lucas calipers, and brackets on the 7th generation as well. mine has exactly the same brakes as my CH7 did on the rear. I even found after checking 1 stuck slider pin not long after I bought it.
     
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  4. AccordMavman Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom James Cheshire
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    You’re spot on there! I’ve only bought a few Lucas parts, and can’t say I’ve been overly impressed with them. Hey ho....
     
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  5. AccordMavman Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom James Cheshire
    166
    122
    Ok, I have the verdict, which is as I expected...

    Both of the rear discs were warped, with an average runout of 0.40mm - lowest point was 0.35mm and the highest was around 0.45mm. No other issues were identified with the braking mechanisms at all.

    Went for a drive tonight, and my brakes are as smooth as silk, for the first time in what feels forever...:excited::excited::excited:

    So I’m about to put an email together to send to HH, for them to forward to HUK. I will provide a further update when I receive a response...
     
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  6. i-DSI Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Belgium Aalst
    1,437
    605
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    Before you write your letter/mail, have a look at this article. I truely believe they are right. Discs do not warp 'just like that'. There's always a root cause, and that's not the disc itself.
    "Brake rotors do not warp from heat, even when driven by the most aggressive traffic officer. Instead, they wear unevenly. This uneven wear is caused by the brake pads themselves as they intermittently touch an out-of-true rotor. The root cause of the uneven wear is one of two things: either the rotor was installed out-of-true with the hub, or the tire was improperly torqued to the hub during the last tire change. "
    Full article:
    Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part One: Rotors Don't Warp | Hendon Publishing
    It is, asking me, exactly what happened to your car: working on the brakes, and for some reason the disc or the wheel were not perfectly mounted.
    I do not believe any of the parts on your car can be blamed. And if the wheel or disc are still not 100% correct, the problem will definitly reoccur.
     
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  7. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    @i-DSI that is a smashing link.
    Thank you for sharing. :Niceone:
     
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  8. Bounder Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
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    This article has some good points as well, -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
    I agree that the mounting has to be good and torque values are very important but my takeaway is that pads need to be bedded in no matter what manufacturers say in the manual, due to liability laws I suspect they can't say what they really believe.
     
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  9. itsonlyjimbo Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom jim bolton
    95
    68
    Hi all, am reading this article with interest as I too am having this problem ( uneven braking - grab, normal, grab ) even when lightly breaking at low speed ! It's also accompanied by a grinding noise - new rear discs fitted last year, but due to gearbox problem ( see my earlier posts ) my car has had little use over last few months. I suspect new pads are needed but until the weather improves I am not even attempting to sort it out !
    I will strip down, grease slide pins, copper lube pad contact points and fit new pads of course, and obviously check and rectify anything else I find when carrying out the work.
    Can anyone answer this question, genuine OR non-genuine Honda parts ? as long as they are quality parts and not cheap crap I honestly don't believe it matters - my main reason for this is that Honda do not manufacture parts ! They like ALMOST all other car " builders " do not make parts ! Specialist parts manufacturers make parts and car " builders " assemble them to their brand of car ! Many many years ago I used to deal with a company in Manchester called Small & Parks, they used to manufacture brake and clutch parts for the motor industry - that company are now I think called Mintex ( they were also called Don Capasco many years ago ) and yes, I am sure that certain parts are made specifically for a particular make/model of car, many years ago a friend of mine had a Lotus ( I think it was the Elan ) needed a replacement door handle and bought a new one that was fitted to Austin Alegro !! Same handle, same numbers marked on it BUT different part number, one for Austin - another for Lotus !!
    So, my question is = providing you don't pay four shillings for a part costing twenty pounds, are you genuinely getting value for money ??
    Many thanks
    Jim
     
  10. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I would personally go OEM where possible, but its all down to cost at the end of the day. I have always used genuine disks and pads in the past, and the cost I think was £140 for discs and £40 for pads for the rear. I decided for the rears to go down the brembo route (see my earlier post and link) which came to £65 for everything (had special offer other wise it would have come to £100 or so.) No issues so far, but the rear only does 30% breaking anyway. I've put genuine pads and discs on the front though. Definitely avoid any cheaper unknown brands.
     
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  11. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    As with tyres, it' always best to stick with brands known for quality and reliable products.

    I myself am keeping an eye on eurocarparts for their next large offer on brake parts as I will be due some new pads doo, front and back, and while there I might as well do the discs as well, as they are a relatively unknown. But will more than likely go for Brembo myself.
     
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  12. Bounder Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    271
    129
    I replaced the rear brake discs and pads when I first got my 2008 Tourer, I used TRW discs and Bosch pads, I also serviced the calipers by stripping them down and removing as much corrosion as I could. When I rebuilt I used the original seals and used lots of red rubber grease in the rebuild, 20k and 2 years on they have given no trouble, and are performing well, the discs are starting to form a lip but I'd expect that with a car that has VSA as the rear brakes are applied more than a conventional braking system.
    I have a new set of TRW discs and pads to go on the front when time allows.
    The biggest problem with brakes to my mind is lack of sufficient lubrication when assembled, most brake calipers are assembled dry or with brake fluid as lubricant and this means water will find its way behind seals and into sliders which leads to binding and associated problems.
    If the space behind seals is filled with grease its not as easy for water to penetrate and lodge there.
    Same with sliders, use quality elastomer safe grease I used Motorex Fett 2000 which is rubber safe.
     
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  13. jcalvarez Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Jose Dunfermline
    180
    121
    I replaced last year all disks and pads with genuine Honda ones from HH. I don't feel any shuddering, but the rear disks do not look as smooth as the front ones after 4 months.
     
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  14. itsonlyjimbo Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom jim bolton
    95
    68
    I think bounder has it spot on ! It's not just fitting new parts - its just as important fitting them correctly ! Each time you work on brakes especially treat the job as a semi refurbishment, clean, inspect, replace, grease and assemble as needed !
    If you just quickly remove and replace the pads only - you should almost certainly expect to have problems. Do a proper job in the first place and you shouldn't have problems!
    Cheers
    Jim
     
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  15. Bounder Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ireland Huan County Cork
    271
    129
    I look at it like this: I'm not a pro mechanic. Therefore I can take my time with my own car and make the job as good as I can, mechanics are paid for their time (mostly) and doing things like using RRG on brakes won't pay for them.
    I pick a day and do the job in my own time and do it as well as I can, the saving I make in not paying a mechanic means that I can afford to do a better job in many cases.
     
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  16. Harvey Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    This is exactly how it should be and @Bounder also raises a good point in taking the time to do the job properly. I am also not a professional mechanic either, and thus it took me 1 1/2 hours to change both front discs and pads on my previous Accord, though that included unloading allntge tools out of the boot and safely jacking the car onto axle stands. I would like to do all four brakes on my current car, which I would say will take me probably 4 hours to do all.

    Though it can't be any worse than doing the front pads on my friends Saab 9-3 Aero. Which took 6 hours to complete due to the parts store saying they had the pads in stock and then when i got there, they didn't. And having to replace two anti roll bar links as well.
     
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