General Rear Drum Brakes Question

Discussion in 'Lounge & Gossip' started by Sphinx, Monday 6th Jun, 2016.

  1. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆


    Quick question - the handbrake is riding a little high and will need adjusting.

    Never tackled drum brakes before, but done disc ones plenty of times.

    Looked a few tutorials, and it looks straight forward so I thought I would check the condition of the rear shoes and drum.

    Do you think they need replacing? Car is Toyota Yaris with 77k. Don't think they have ever been changed.

    What do you guys think? And more importantly - if I change them will it fix the handbrake problem?

    Thanks in advance.

    20160605_145029 (Custom). 20160605_145042 (Custom). 20160605_145116 (Custom). 20160605_145305.
  2. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Spain stu lanzarote
    Its hard to see but I've seen a lot worse ! There bonded shoes so there's no rivets, I guess for the relatively cheap price you may as well change them while its stripped down. Not sure how there adjusted on a Toyota but usually there adjusted automatically, so you should check the adjusters not seized. Personally I'd check the h/brake cable as they stretch overtime.
  3. jimjams Guest

    what's the bottom picture, is that an outer disc for the footbrake ?

    if so, it's called a DIH (dum in hat) parking brake, and since the drum is only for parking, the shoes should never really wear.

    if not, then the shoes are for both parking and foot brake, so you might as well get new shoes for it.
  4. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks for the replies.

    The last pic is the actual drum itself (I think) .

    - - - Updated - - -
    I zoomed the pic in so you could see the scoring on the drum.
  5. jimjams Guest

    ah, I saw an optical illusion

    it's for both the footbrake and the parking brake, so the shoes will wear, IMO no need to worry about a bit of scoring inside a drum brake, just renew the shoes.
  6. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆


    Will probably replace them to be honest - only £25.

  7. jimjams Guest

    £25 is good for 2 pairs of shoes LOL
  8. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Spain stu lanzarote
    Don't forget to add the discount code to save an extra 15% sorry to tell you it was 25% last week!
  9. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆


    Weather picked up a bit now :clap:- however it seems too good to waste good sunshine doing drum brakes.

    More of this :drinking: and BBQ is required.
    Nels likes this.
  10. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
    I had a 150k 99 Yaris GLS before my Jazz and that car just refused to die. To be on topic I think changing the shoes is the best way forward.
  11. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Change them if you want, but I think a good clean, check they move freely and then try them. There's plenty left on those shoes.

    You should be able to adjust the handbrake so that it is back to where it should be.
    Similarly, new thicker shoes will return the handbrake to a lower position.
    Sphinx and i-DSI like this.
  12. i-DSI Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Belgium Aalst
    Nels is right. There's no need to change them. Only adjust the handbrake. Don't know either how it's done on this model.
  13. jimjams Guest

    for the sake of £25 and being the main rear brake I'd change them
  14. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
    IIRC It does have one of these clicking wheels you can adjust to tighten the handbarke, the hole for it is at the back of the drum so look behind and there is a rubber grommet..
    Nels likes this.
  15. jimjams Guest

    ^ maybe try that first

    tbh getting new shoes is unlikely to cure the loose handbrake, the old shoes do look ok, I'm just thinking that if they are original then 77k miles will have worn quite a lot off them, so the new ones should be considerably thicker (if they're not, then those shoes in the pics are not original from when the car was new).
  16. Sphinx Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks guys, I will go over paperwork again and see if they have been changed.

    I found this on the net, so may give it a go first :
    "Quite right the rear brakes are self adjusting....when they work!
    Do not adjust the cable first.
    Remove rear brake drums. Normally a quick hit with a hammer on the Drum loosens the drum and should just pull off.
    Clean off all muck/dust with a spray brake cleaner. Spray into the drum & wipe that clean to.
    Using a screwdriver push the brake shoe away from the cylinder whilst holding the other shoe tight and this will operate the self adjuster.
    Do this about 6/8 times watching the adjuster move the cam one tooth at a time.
    Put the drum back on and check for brake binding. If you gone too far the drum will rub. You don’t want this. So click back the adjuster till the drum fits and doesn't bind.
    Do the same with the other side. Refit wheels. These should Spin freely. Now check the Handbrake. Pull on 1 click at a time. The wheels should hold firm on 4/5 clicks.
    Check each side as you Click up the H/brake.
    If not repeat the operation."
    - - - Updated - - -
    Will measure the current thickness of the shoes next time I have the
    jimjams and legend-ary like this.
  17. jimjams Guest

    ^ that's a good guide for a drum brake that's part of the main foot-brake system