Pre-Facelift Model Rear hubs binding

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by NVS, Tuesday 16th Jul, 2013.

  1. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi folks, I have a 2.2i CTDi Sport with 60k on. Recently replaced both rear calipers & pads after they started sticking. Problem persists on the r/N/S (to a lesser degree). I thought it could be a duff reconditioned caliper, so swapped it and the brake hose as felt perhaps it didn't bleed it quite as freely as it should. Alas, to no avail. Its not binding tight, but definitely not right, getting uncomfortably warm after relatively short journeys.

    So thinking it could be handbrake assembly on the hub, a bad spring or self-adjusting mechanism maybe?. Does anyone have have experience, pics or diagrams of this? Or any other suggestions re cause?
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
  3. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hello Boss - its the Tourer.

    Since my last post, I've taken the rear discs off and can now rule out the parking brake hanging things up. I'm now thinking it could be the load sensing valve restricting the brake fluid? Do these cars even have one? if so where? May also try a complete drain/refill just in case there is some debris in the system?

    I'm basically looking at the 'cheap fix' solutions before I start thinking about a faulty ABS module or similar expensive parts!

    Cheers - all help much appreciated.
  4. Dave Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Take the caliper off and leave the disc on pull the handbrake on and off a few times and see if disc spins freely after.
  5. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi Dave, tried that - no issue with the parking brake.
  6. Primarycare Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Primary c Northampton
    Might be a silly question however have the two spring clips on the pads located correctly? The rear capliper and pads are much like vw and i have seen this many times and will do what you describe. Its very easy done.
  7. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Yep, took 'em off, cleaned & replaced. Also greased the sliders & put a new hose on, double-checked & satisfied that all is relocated correctly.

    So I figure its maybe load sensing valve? Anyone know where to find it please?
  8. Primarycare Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Primary c Northampton
    Not seen that prob on here but that's not to say its not that. Audi a4 a3 a6 and golf and passat can suffer with that very issue but that's because they fit cheap crud to their cars to be honest I would not know how to test for that CJ any ideas?? Interesting issue this and be good to bottom it out.
  9. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Also not 100% sure fluid is flowing as it should when bleeding new caliper after hose replacement, I know all makes will be different but didn't feel quite right IMHO & suggests valve issue or something further up the line.
  10. RobB Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Have you definitely got the right pads?
    Might sound silly but a long time ago I got caught out and so have several others. The rear pads for the tourer are different to the saloon. Part suppliers presume they're the same (because they're idiots). Make sure the back of the pads are flat, and don't have a little nodule on the back.
  11. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks, I'll investigate that when l get a chance & report back. Agree some are like 2shortplanks, they already sent me the wrong hose which I had to return. What are the chances I got the right pads from them? Hmmm....
  12. RobB Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    If everything else looks ok my money's on the pads.
  13. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Ok after reading this thread, could you answer these queries. Apologies for the list question to follow

    List of parts changed already, correct me if I am wrong.

    Two new Callipers ? genuine or aftermarket?
    New pads genuine or aftermarket?
    Rear brake hoses changed or not? not clear if changed where they genuine or aftermarket?
    Brake fluid used to bleed the system? type and make?

    Can you get pictures of both rears disc the wear pattern will reveal a lot by looking at them.

    Have the discs been changed?
    Have the calliper carriers been changed?
    Have the correct slider been inserted in the correct location?
    The condition of the slider rubber boots?
    What grease was used on the slider and rattle shims?
    Are any of the anti rattle shim missing or bent?
    Have the pads got their shims and installed in the correct location?
    If the system was bleed what pattern was it bleed?
    When was the last time the whole braking system was flushed with fresh brake fluid?
    Have we done a run out check on the rear disc ?
    Where all the bolts to the rear brake tighten by a torque wrench?

    Let see if we can meet in the middle without looking at the car.:Thumbup:
  14. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks for your help to all.

    Ichiban - I know how you feel about using genuine parts, however - after approaching my local Honda garage who told me they wanted best of £700 for new rear calpiers & pads, I was left with no choice other than to source reconditioned calipers. I vaguely remember the days when I was young, free & single and had a disposable income...:Search:

    Answers to your Qs below -

    I found this resource to be helpful regarding the braking system on the 7th Generation Accord:
    BRAKE JOB: Seventh Generation Accord (2003-'08): Brake and Front End

    Thanks for all responses to date. Im away from home for the next
    couple of days, but will check those pads & post pics of the rotors when I get home.
  15. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    So, I got to look at the pads on Sunday - RobB, you were bang on the money! :Hooray:

    Sure enough the part suppliers had given me the rear pads for the saloon (with a couple of nodules on the back of the outer pads). When I took 'em off I noticed where the caliper pot had been pushing on the top nodule - it had worn a grove in it. If you look closely in the attached pic. you can see this for yourself.


    Fortunately the calipers were fine - and I did get the suppliers to replace the pads and refund the cost of the brake hose. All seems fine now. Still... won't be going back to see them again in a hurry!! :Angry:

    I guess the moral of the story is: Consider the extra time/cost & potential damage using non-genuine parts can cause.

    PS - thanks again to all for helping me to get this sorted. Saved me much aggro.
    PPS - i've never ended a thread with a moral before, it kinda feels like cheesy 80s TV. :Hey:
    Last edited by a moderator: Tuesday 23rd Jul, 2013
  16. Dave Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Picture doesn't work for me I can't see it, but i'd like to as I need to do my rear discs and pads soon.
  17. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Nvs use Advanced mode and click on attachments to insert the picture.
  18. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    NVS you said the pads had their shims but the pictures you have posted does not have them? You do need them otherwise you will get a repeat occurance.
  19. NVS Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I don't have shims in there now. The inner pad came with a 3 pronged spring clip which fits inside the single caliper pot. I also used copper grease on the backs of the pads. Hoping that will be OK?

    I understand the OEM pads come with shims. Will definitely get those next time.
  20. RobB Club Veteran ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    As I said idiot parts supplier.
    The moral of the story is to check your old pads against the new ones.