Suspension, Steering and Brakes Recommendations please....

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Baz, Monday 30th Sep, 2013.

  1. Baz Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    It's looking like the brakes on my '05 2.2i-CTDi Executive Tourer are soon due for an overhaul....It's looking like discs, pads, and calipers all-round, will be required....Has anyone uprated the brakes on their diesel tourer? If so, what was used, where was it purchased, and how much did it all cost?

    Have never really felt much confidence in my car's brakes, and would like them sorted once and for all!

    Also, Lowering Springs: I think my car would look good if it was lowered by maybe 40mm....Has anyone lowered a diesel tourer? Again, if so, what was used, and where can they be sourced? There are plenty of lowering springs on Ebay, but not seem to be for the diesel.

  2. 098Joe Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi Baz

    I would keep everything bog standard if I were you. With regard to lowering suspension, just remember you will compromise the suspension geometry that was carefully and expensively designed developed and tested to achieve best combination of ride and handling.


  3. Bendzior Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Agree lowering cars is not just lower springs , your shocks will under more pressure so they will fail sinner then normally , all you bussing, CV joints , rod ends will go , and hawing tourer I expect you carry a lot more stuff , trust me I did have slammed Civic and with 4 adults in a car I manage to damage petrol tank hangers. Its not just a cares of lower springs bud be prepared to spend some more on other suspention components as they will fail

    As for brakes I also interested to stick with OEM or get drilled from eBay ? Not considering bigger brake upgrade but I did notice that cdti have same size as ATR so could I put ATR discs on then?
  4. PeteMM Premium Member Club Supporter

    Northern Ireland Pete Belfast, UK
    Brembo blank discs all round - anyone who chooses drilled and grooved for daily use needs their head looking at with regard to increased pad wear and massively increased risk of cracking. If I fail to warp a quality blank disc, very few will manage it!!!

    Mintex 1144 or Ferodo DS2500 pads in the front.

    Mintex or Ferodo rear pads and shoes

    Suits me fine, has worked on virtually every car I have ever owned and works on our competition cars too.

    As for lowering, Eibach Pro-kit will provide you with circa 30mm of lowering and ride only slightly stiffer than standard without undue stress on the shocks - much lower and you need to consider a shock change too
  5. Brodziu Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Greg Manchester
    Springs,Eibach stopped doing springs for tourer over 2 years ago, so you need to find something other ie. KW, which will give you drop of 30mm, you can check how they look on the car on my tread if you don't slam you car so much you don't need to worry about hitting or damaging something, if it comes to brakes if you want to upgrade I recommend discs and calipers from ATS it's P&P, how it look on the car also can be found on my tread, difference between ATS and ATR is that discs are 20mm bigger, few mm thicker and calipers are bigger also twin pot ;-) discs are not cracking just like that, unless you won't drive through puddle with red hot discs they will be fine, I went for grooved black diamond discs and I really impressed, but apart calipers and discs I have steel braided brake lines so everything all together is giving me peace of mind under hard breaking, I agree that grooved discs increasing pad wear, but not so significantly.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 23rd Feb, 2014
  6. Baz Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks all, for the recommendations....Not sure what to do yet....Am considering changing to a sportier car (MR-2, MX-5, something like that) and making my partner have the boring family car, but even that seems hard work: If I find a car I like the look of, the dealers just don't seem that they can be bothered to sell to me! :Unknown:
  7. naslam968 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆


    I would disagree with regards to drilled and grooved disc, I have used in my Honda Odyssey 2.3 Model which I had for over a year and now my friend is driving same Odyssey without any problem.
    I have just ordered for my accord 2.4 executive EBC Gold line for Front and rear, also will be using Brembo Pads all around which are coming in few days as well. Will post the Pictures and share my experience as well.
  8. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    Lower the car with full coilovers and not springs to stop premature wear on the other suspension components. There's many different break kits available for the 7th Generation (mostly saloon mind). If you're just looking for a bit better stopping power, I'd recommend just doing the fronts (saloon/tourer are the same). A high-end set of calipers, discs and pads will easily run around a grand per axle.

    Brembo, StopTech, K Sport, HT Spec, Fastbrakes etc. are all brands I've seen with compatible kits.
  9. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    'Best' is always a personal preference. Quite often the driver for changing suspension is that the 'best' the manufacturer thought would satisfy most customers is not quite the same as what the driver had in mind. This is usually identified when the driver is putting the car through certain situations/loading, and the car does not behave how the driver wants (i.e. under damped on undulating roads).

    Geometry can be made to work really well (not nessecarily standard settings) with some careful set up. Camber arms, camber bolts, adjustable top mounts or eccentric bushes etc can be used to dial in the required settings (and overtime fine tune them till it handles how you want). Method all depends on the suspension architecture. I.e For the front suspension on the Accord 7 Gen, you ideally need to adjust the upper arm - use an adjustable ball joint platform or eccentric bushes. I'd pref eccentric bushes. Rears via the camber arms.

    Again - all depends how low and your geometry. If your drive shafts end up pointing to the sky, you are bound to break CV joints - especially if you accellerate hard whilst cornering. Keeping the shafts as close to horizontal will help maintain healthy CV's... however the joints are designed to take some articulation - so if you do set it up with angle, make sure the damping and spring rate is set so you don't have levels of shock travel that result in pushing the CVs past a comforable point. the same applies to your bushes/joints. If you need a big drop, then maybe you need to look at spacer plates to bring the joints closer to normal angles.

    Basically - with a 40mm drop, you are likely to get away with minimal work. Even if you have to even out the rear camber - some people with standard 7 gens need to fit adjustable rear camber arms to do this, so its not the end of the world!

    If you want to slam it to the ground, then you need to take care to ensure reliability. If you slam it to the floor and cut corners on the set up, you are bound to cause problems for yourself.

    Totally agree re: brakes. Quality discs (not drilled or groved), top pads and well maintained brakes = good set up for road and track. Why risk excessive wear and cracking with drilled brakes.

    Looking good! Good stance from a 40mm drop. Is that on standard shocks?
    Glad to see you recorded temp drop results from the FMIC.

    Deviate - are you running aftermarket suspension? If so, do you mind sharing your experience with your set up? (I could prob find it in your build, but makes it easier comparing to others if everyone posts their experience here).

    Anyone else able to share their experience?

    Especially if you have experienced the difference with:
    Eibachs with standard shocks
    Eibachs + Bilstein replacement shocks
    Koni SRT shock/spring combo
    BC Racing Coilovers (I wouldn't drop it a lot, but love the fact that for a few quid over the Koni SRT you can adjust pre-load, damping, height and corner weighting). I had these on my 3rd Generation Golf VR6 before I wrote it off at the N'ring oops.. They are now fitted to NigeP's (from Northloop) insane 2nd Generation GTi with insane aero.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 23rd Feb, 2014
  10. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    I'm not mate, stock set-up provides the greatest comfort and the set-up has already been tuned for handing - changing it would negate that in my eyes. Might air bag it in the future for the best of both worlds.