Engine & Gearbox Throttle/Acceleration Issues + Rear Brake Binding

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Heckler, Thursday 26th May, 2016.

  1. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    My Tourer has been developing an intermittent problem with acceleration.

    What happens goes something like this...

    Drives normally, then slow down to stop and when I go to pull away it's like there's no throttle at all... the revs climb so slowly that the car either barely moves or stalls. If I can catch it in time, I have to depress the clutch, get the revs to rise to well over 2k before kinda snatching at the clutch to get the car moving... At the same time this happens, it feels like the turbo doesn't kick in until around 2500rpm (it's normally around the 1800rpm mark).

    In addition to that, it can also happen in 2nd, 3rd or 4th when the revs drop below 2500rpm making acceleration a real problem and and as a result I am now driving it much harder and changing gears 3x as much... Corners that I would take in 3rd and accelerate away fine... Now require 2nd gear and so forth. At times I'm having to change down from 4th to 2nd or 3rd to first, just to get the car to pick up speed.

    It's not a clutch issue... the revs don't rise at all me pressing the throttle and I can floor the throttle and the rise rise at a snails pace

    This is causing serious issues if I am trying to pull out of a junction and several times I've pulled out and nothing happens which causes me to block the junction/roundabout and oncoming traffic... I'm having to rev it to 3k RPM before pulling out of anywhere now just in case.

    I'm going to have the fuel filter changed (as I bought one a few months ago) because I don't know when it was last done.. and cross my fingers that it helps/resolves the problem... Because the only other things I can think it might be is a failing potentiometer on the throttle itself or perhaps the fuel pump.

    All advice welcomed because it's getting to the point where the car is becoming undriveable and the frequency of this happening is increasing.

    In addition to all that, I have a major issue with one (or both) of the real callipers binding. Would it be better to get a couple of slider kits to refurbish both callipers or replace them both?

    I found these on ebay and wondered if they would do... unless Holdcroft Honda can do them at a decent price. I changed the discs and pads last \August, but will probably fit new rear pads again as they're probably worn right down again due to this.

    I don't think the rear brakes are binding enough to be a factor in the throttle problem.
  2. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    By all means have a look at the sliders, but it is more likely that the piston has rusted and not releasing, or the handbrake mechanism is not releasing (a more common issue)

    IMHO, it would be better to replace the calipers. There are places where you can exchange your old calipers for fully re-conditioned units.
  3. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    @Nels can you suggest any refurb places that you know of? I've not found any so far.
  4. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    IIRC, @SpeedyGee had his from a place in the Brum/Midlands.
    I'm sure he'll be able to tell us when he's on next.
  5. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I've just this minute found some... they were showing up as not compatible with my car, but after speaking to them and giving them my reg number... they confirmed they were. £125 for a pair, and I get £15 back when I return my old ones.

    At least that's one issue that will be resolved.... But the throttle/acceleration one is the real problem.
  6. Zebster Guest

    Any warning lights?
  7. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I had one engine light last week that was for a inlet runner valve stuck open... But once cleared it's not come back... But this problem has been slowly getting worse over the last couple of months.
  8. Zebster Guest

    I doubt it's the fuel pump or even the fuel filter, as the problem sounds quite bad, and those problems would bring up a CEL/MIL and store one or two DTCs. Hard to say what it is without diagnostics, but I'd guess the EGR valve may be sticking open?
    Heckler likes this.
  9. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard T Milton Keynes
    As @Nels says - best to just replace the entire rear calipers, more expensive, but its safer and then you negate them causing any further issues.

    2500k before the turbo kicks in is quite high, mine kicks in around 1500k or so with full boost at around 2k. How does she sound at idle? Is she struggling to breathe?
    Heckler likes this.
  10. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    The car normally starts ok first time, and appears to idle ok... But I have been thinking that it sounds a little more rattly than normal... I was going to give it a full service and have all the parts waiting to go on inc the fuel filter... But with replacing both rear callipers and trying to sort out this issue... Money is becoming a big concern... Especially as I'm going to also need two new front tyres within the next month or two and the Insurance is due in about 6 weeks.

    I would try and do the EGR valve clean myself, but no longer have all the right tools... all my sockets/ratchets broke and the sockets just got lost, damaged or worn and of no use. But because of the inlet runner valve stuck open code I had a week ago... I'm assuming that needs looking at too... So in my mind half the top end of the engine needs pulling apart and cleaning/checking... and that's kinda beyond what I can do, especially on my own with no other means of transport if I hit a snag.
  11. Zebster Guest

    Ignore the IMRC issue for now, that's relatively trivial. While I still think a gentle clean of the EGR valve (and a proper test to make sure it's closing) might be a good start, I'd rather recommend you get the car connected up to a Honda Diagnostic System and get some proper tests run... this shouldn't cost too much (?) and will probably be cheaper than guessing. Maybe you won't need a new fuel filter?
    Heckler and Nighthawk like this.
  12. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I'd already bought the fuel filter because A: I was planning on doing a full service anyway (last service was Jan 2015 8000 miles ago) and B: I have no idea when it was last changed

    Nighthawk has very kindly offered to come over on Sunday and show me how to clean the EGR valve, he's only about 10 miles away from me, and will help me do the service... then I just need to get the callipers and the fuel filter fitted at a garage... and cross my fingers. If the problem still lingers, then I'll have to go see the Honda dealer and get it looked at... My OBDII reader may not be giving me as much info as I need to identify any issues.

    The only engine light codes I've had in the last 10 months of ownership were.

    Swirl Valve Stuck open (cleared last August and never came back... may have been due to some extreme weather/rain we had at the time I was driving in it)
    Inlet runner valve stuck open (cleared a week ago and hasn't come back... no idea if related to a possible EGR valve stuck... but if the system is really filthy it might make sense)

    I also had a code when I had a failing battery, that was related to a low voltage and was cleared and never came back after fitting a new battery from HH.

    But the car is 11yrs old and has done 160k.. only 4.5k since I bought it last July. I replaced all the discs and pads right away and that's all I've needed to do so far. Time for some TLC and maintenance... will also get the garage to flush through the brake fluid when I get the callipers fitted.
  13. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
  14. Zebster Guest

    Hats off to @Nighthawk

    I would avoid going to a Honda dealer. A Bosch diesel specialist who has a HDS or equivalent will probably be better at diagnosing the problem on this relatively old diesel. It is a shame there is no HK member near you that has an HDS.
    Heckler likes this.
  15. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Funnily enough, that's the one I found in the end, a pair for £125 with £15 back when I return the old ones... Good to know that others have been pleased with the quality of them.
  16. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    A massive thanks to @Nighthawk for all his help today... He thinks we've got to the root of the problem and the car is running really sweet again. Just got to take it for a 10-15m run to get the car to relearn the ECU again... But already there's a massive difference.

    He arrived about 9:20, started the car when he got here to see how it was... and I saw the look on his face... it was bad, really bad. His expression was one that said... I don't think cleaning this is going to help. He pulled the battery out, the airbox out and stripped the EGR out, left that to soak in some EGR cleaner fluid he brought with him... It was really, really badly coked up. he then pulled the MAF and another sensor on the IM both of which were really, really filthy. Cleaned those up with yet another special cleaner he had.

    Reassembled it all, started the car and hey presto it's revving as normal. Took it for a test drive and at first the turbo was kicking in at around 2500rpm like before... But by the time we got back it was spooling up around 2000rpm. If memory servers, it was normally around 1800-1900rpm before the problems started.

    We changed the air filter and pollen filter... he was going to help do an oil change... But I've misplaced the oil filter... possibly thrown it out during a clean up before I went into hospital last month. So I'll order a new one and he's going to help me do that in a couple of weeks, also do a clutch fluid flush and change the gearbox oil, and even show me how to remove the front bumper to replace the broken foglight The brake fluid flush will be done at the same time as I get the new rear callipers fitted.

    In all it probably took around 1hr 40 mins and he was on his way just after 11am.

    I can't sing his praises high enough... he's a top bloke and has saved my bacon. The car was almost at the stage where it could be dangerous to drive because of the lack of acceleration and me with a severe shortage of funds for any major costs... and desperately needing the car because of my dad who's disabled and the folks rely on me for a lot of help running about, shopping and appointments... as well as just taking them out for the day... Funnily enough I'd just taken them to Woburn Safari park last Tuesday and the car almost behaved until the trip home... and with it being a 50 mile round trip from me to them... I desperately need a working and reliable car.

    He wouldn't take a penny for his troubles, I offered to buy him some more the cleaners he used... he wouldn't accept anything. But I did manage to get him to take the polarising filter from my old Mini 806 dashcam that broke recently as he's got 2 of them... and that makes me feel a little better about him coming all the way over to help on his day off.

    So thanks matey... I pass near you when I go to visit the folks so perhaps I can buy you a pint on my way home one evening. :OTT::BooYeah::excited::dance::party::clap::Thumbup: Because I can now :vtec::vtec::vtec:
  17. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard T Milton Keynes
    It was a pleasure to meet you @Heckler

    And you are more than welcome. Thats what life is about, helping those who need it. Let me know when you get the filter sorted and we will make another plan.
  18. Nels Moderator Staff Team

  19. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard T Milton Keynes
    Well my village does have a local pub (about the only thing it does have) :Drinks:, but I don't drink anyway, but thanks for the offer.

    After arriving in the Mazda MX5, which surprised @Heckler a bit as he was expecting a Honda, the car was indeed very very clogged. It wouldn't rev above 1200rpm with your foot flat on the floor and it was very unhappy at idle. The EGR valve was very badly clogged, and that Tunap EGR cleaner which I got from @Holdcroft Honda worked fantastically. It took 3 applications, but it got there in the end. The MAF sensor was dirty, the MAP sensor was actually caked, literally, in muck. All cleaned and put back together again, and a car key dubiously turned and she roared into life. No more black smoke under acceleration either.

    I have no idea how she was not kicking up an EML, I really don't.

    Oh, the air filter was a little dirty :Whistle:

    Zebster and Heckler like this.
  20. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    @Heckler now you've seen how easy it is to change this, please don't let it ever get like this again.
    Heckler and Nighthawk like this.